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Author Topic: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build  (Read 39117 times)

Offline WhyNot

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Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #370 on: Jul 03, 2018, 13:47:29 »
A little late now.
But for what its worth.  Easiest and quickest way Ive found to adjust static timing.

1.  Set the gap on left point to open spec distance.  .14

2.  Now, use your test light or I prefer to use meter on tone so I can hear it open, while watching the marks. 

     Rotate plate til Left opens on LF exactly.  snug plate down & rotate engine counterclockwise

3.  Then WITHOUT using your feeler gauge.  Simply, tweak RIGHT point until it opens exactly on L, it should "automatically" fall within .12-16 specs. 

     Now check RIGHT gap. 

     If RIGHT turns out to be more or less than 12-16, start over w step  1.  This time set Left to open either .12 OR .16 gap...repeat steps 2 & 3.

If you adjust Left throughout the .12 .14 .16 range, opening exactly on LF and find you cant get Right gap within spec opening exactly on L,   

Points are worn out and need replaced.

NOTE>>

If points are set less than .12 they will remain closed to long allowing the coil to heat up and fry.  (not enough cool down time between charging cycles)

If open beyond .16 the coils will have less time to charge = weak spark.

Step 4, start bike put your strobe on it and turn plate for proper operation.  Double check gaps. done.

Is this true on others bikes as well?

With dual points that is.
1975 CB750K5
1974 CB350F

Online irk miller

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Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #371 on: Jul 03, 2018, 13:49:50 »
Is this true on others bikes as well?

With dual points that is.

Pretty much.

Offline Alex jb

  • Posts: 339
75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #372 on: Jul 03, 2018, 14:57:58 »
Carbs should only need minor adjustment, fuel screws and idle speed. Idle adjuster will be kinda behind clutch cable. Fuel screws are at 1.5 turns out which will get it started.LOL, Should have realised. When I was at MMI a lot of people had never kick-started a bike or even seen it done

Are you pulling my leg?!


Iíve only owned one bike I was quite scared of kick starting (and it only had a kickstart) a Yam YZ490.  If you didnít commit and it kicked back it could catapult you!
« Last Edit: Jul 03, 2018, 15:38:28 by Alex jb »

Online crazypj

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Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #373 on: Jul 03, 2018, 16:36:54 »
Nope. Electric start has been common since late 70's. Even back then there were bike not available with a kick-starter. (CX500, GL1100, etc) It only got more common.  Majority of 'Inner city' kids saw very few dirt bikes and by 2000's the ones I met wanted to work on GSX-R, CBR, ZX-R, etc which hadn't had kick-start  capabilities for at least 15~20 yrs
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Best thing I ever overheard
"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"
Brian Morgan, 1982

CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline trek97

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Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #374 on: Jul 03, 2018, 16:37:41 »
Is this true on others bikes as well?

With dual points that is.

I might be 99.9% sure it could probably work on 99.9% of bikes w dual points, maybe.   ;)

So long as the plate fits the bike properly.  I had one a few years back that could shift around. 
The plate was a bit undersized and could shift side to side when screws were loosened.  Continuously throwing gaps off, as I tried to adjust them.
Drove me nuts till I figured that out, and fit a proper plate.

Offline MiniatureNinja

  • Posts: 521
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #375 on: Jul 03, 2018, 16:37:49 »
Are you pulling my leg?!


Iíve only owned one bike I was quite scared of kick starting (and it only had a kickstart) a Yam YZ490.  If you didnít commit and it kicked back it could catapult you!
That's the bike my friend shattered his foot on!



Also thanks for the  timing tutorial that's how I did it actually was near dead nuts on right cylinder after I did the left one correctly
« Last Edit: Jul 03, 2018, 16:51:15 by MiniatureNinja »
'75 Honda CB360 - thread

Offline jpmobius

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Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #376 on: Jul 03, 2018, 18:16:16 »
A little late now.
But for what its worth.  Easiest and quickest way Ive found to adjust static timing.

1.  Set the gap on left point to open spec distance.  .14

2.  Now, use your test light or I prefer to use meter on tone so I can hear it open, while watching the marks. 

     Rotate plate til Left opens on LF exactly.  snug plate down & rotate engine counterclockwise

3.  Then WITHOUT using your feeler gauge.  Simply, tweak RIGHT point until it opens exactly on L, it should "automatically" fall within .12-16 specs. 

     Now check RIGHT gap. 

     If RIGHT turns out to be more or less than 12-16, start over w step  1.  This time set Left to open either .12 OR .16 gap...repeat steps 2 & 3.

If you adjust Left throughout the .12 .14 .16 range, opening exactly on LF and find you cant get Right gap within spec opening exactly on L,   

Points are worn out and need replaced.

NOTE>>

If points are set less than .12 they will remain closed to long allowing the coil to heat up and fry.  (not enough cool down time between charging cycles)

If open beyond .16 the coils will have less time to charge = weak spark.

Step 4, start bike put your strobe on it and turn plate for proper operation.  Double check gaps. done.

Excellent advice!!  Will work on any twin cylinder with 2 point sets on a single timing plate.  Generally, it is better to get the timing correct for each cylinder than the gap, so long as the gap is not too far out of range - as noted.  Note:  "dual point" ignition (not that you ever hear about such a thing these days - though we ARE pretty much talking antique here) is something entirely different and I don't recalling seeing it on a bike.  A "dual point ignition" was used on high performance car ignitions and used one set of points to open the circuit and a different set to close it.  This made the "dwell" time for the coil independent of the cam profile, allowing larger point gaps and longer "coil charge" times that would otherwise be impossible with a single set of points doing both on and off duty.
« Last Edit: Jul 03, 2018, 18:28:38 by jpmobius »
Mobius


On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to zero.

1973 RD350 Yamaha build  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66498.0

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Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #377 on: Jul 03, 2018, 19:40:38 »
  A "dual point ignition" was used on high performance car ignitions and used one set of points to open the circuit and a different set to close it.  This made the "dwell" time for the coil independent of the cam profile, allowing larger point gaps and longer "coil charge" times that would otherwise be impossible with a single set of points doing both on and off duty.
There are two types of dual point distributors- 4 lobe and 8 lobe.  Mallory, iirc, made a double life 4 lobe that fired alternating points, so each one fired 1/2 the cylinders.  My understanding, so correct me if I'm wrong, was the 4 lobe wasn't for dwell but to push flutter into higher rpms and for longer life.   

Offline MiniatureNinja

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Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #378 on: Jul 03, 2018, 20:14:24 »
All I know is that if you touch the points and a ground with your fingertips it fucking shocks the shit out of you

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'75 Honda CB360 - thread