1981 GS750E (GSX750E) Rat Cafe Racer

[LKS]

Had a go with the sodablaster today. Impressed with how clean an dry the surface is afterwards. Washed the pan in diesel first then blasted it. Gave it a coat of BMW grey to finish it off.

With paint by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

With paint by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

With paint by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

[Nust]

Nice work! 

That paintworks great.

I'm curious about your pegs, did you run all the textured bits on a lathe or on a multi axis cnc?   I recently acquired a lathe but have very little experience on one so its a learning experience.


Any information is appreciated and keep up the good work. looking forward to seeing this build.

[LKS]

Thank you

IMG_20170712_170300 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

The pegs are made on both the lathe and the mill. Here is a photo from a test I did with some plastic. When moving to aluminum I went down in size for the mill endpiece, I used a 3.2 mm Dremel round head. I also had to make a support to make it rigid enough.

IMG_20180522_142551 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

As you can see from the setup above, I have a device attached to the mill that I can turn by any number of degrees. Should have had a video, but I guess you get the picture..  The lengthwise grooves are made with the mill.

As you can see in the final picture, you can experiment with how deep the grooves are made to get a kind of weaving pattern if you want.

IMG_20180522_163657 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

[Nust]

That's what I was hoping to see.  That must have taken some time on the mill. Thanks for the info, i'm going to try to tackle some pegs on the lathe and was thinking about something along these lines or maybe just a knurled pattern. 

[LKS]

Good luck, patience is key

[LKS]

Time for updates.. Got the engine together today. Was a bit of a hassle bechause previous owners had ruined the threads on almost half of the 20 bolts on the valve cover. That will be a task for later, to fix the threads and get a set of new suzuki bolts.

I ordered a set of oversize oil drain plug and tap, becuase there was no more threads left in the pan. This seems to be the story of the engine, there are broken threads everywhere. Two of the exhausts bolt threads are also gone. More people should learn to use a torque wrench.. :/

Here is the new fancy bolt:

Oil drain plug magnet by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

Oil drain plug by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


I sodablasted the whole engine and masked off the already painted covers before I sprayed the rest of the engine. I think the stainless hexbolt set look pretty good

Paint and stainless bolts by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

The gasket set was missing one, so I made it.. close enough

Homemade gasket by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

[LKS]

Finally passed the turning point, and the bike is getting together again

IMG_20180809_105244 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

With the top breather cover off, the frame slid nicely over the engine.

IMG_20180809_110423 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

After putting on the rear wheel and shocks it looks like half a bike already

IMG_20180809_150438 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

Also refurbished some of the wires:

IMG_20180809_144438 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

[LKS]

Another test fitting of the rearset. Next day in the garage I will play with the angles and put on a longer transferrod.

IMG_20180809_175756 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

And here's another picture of the rear wheel

IMG_20180809_172737 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

[Ethan]

Looking good!  Slick move sliding the frame over the engine when its on its side.  I'll have to remember that when I start reassembly.

[LKS]

Thanks!

Here are some photos of my 520 conversion. The rear sprocket is for a Suzuki DR 750 and the front sprocket is for various 90's Kawasakis. The chain is a very narrow d.i.d chain.

Front first. The sprocket has a section which is 2.6mm wider as shown here:

IMG_20180809_171020 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

On the inside of the sprocket I have 6mm spacer similar to the one you see between the sprocket and the nut. The reason I have a spacer on the outside is because I'm missing the retainer washer. It's in the mail..  When I had it mounted like this the chain was to close to the rear tire. I flipped the front sprocket and put two 1.3mm washers behind the rear sprocket. Now there is 7mm clearance between chain and tire. I believe that is enough. I will at least try it for a while. With this configuration I can also use the original rear sprocket bolts.

IMG_20180809_172232 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


IMG_20180809_172737 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


IMG_20180809_172701 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr