Author Topic: 1973 Yamaha RD350  (Read 1326 times)

Offline advCo

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  • Nick Ol' Eye
    • adventur Studios
Re: 1973 Yamaha RD350
« Reply #10 on: Feb 08, 2018, 23:26:29 »
When reinstalling the oil pump it is quite easy and very important to bleed the lines of all air. The main line from the oil tank can be bled with the bleeder screw on the pump, and the two hard lines to the cylinders need to have oil forced through them with an oil can (unless they are full already).
"He broke the mirrors off his Cadillac, 'cause he doesn't like it looking like he looks back."

74 CB360 - Luna - - Sold
82 GS550L - Tracker-ish - - Sold
74 XL350 - The Turd - - Sold
Suzuki FA50 "No-Ped" -
73 Suzuki RV125 -
'97 BMW F650st -

Offline Pete12

  • Posts: 262
Re: 1973 Yamaha RD350
« Reply #11 on: Feb 09, 2018, 04:08:55 »
Good advice on the bleeding.
You can also use the oil pump to bleed the system. Open the metering valve full (where the cable connects) and then rotate the thumbwheel on the end of the pump with your finger. It's a little slow this way but gets oil through the whole system.
Edit: Forget to mention, there's a little bleed screw on the side of the pump that you remove when bleeding the pump. It goes back in when you bleed the lines to the carbies (after you disconnect them, of course).
« Last Edit: Feb 09, 2018, 05:22:19 by Pete12 »

Offline Sav0r

  • Posts: 647
Re: 1973 Yamaha RD350
« Reply #12 on: Feb 09, 2018, 10:47:30 »
I guess it depends on what seals you use, but yes, I had forgotten about the the locating rings on the seals. Splitting the cases is really quite easy, so that's definitely the best way. I did my last engine rebuild in less than four hours, that included removing the engine from the bike, cleaning the engine before disassembly, bore/hone, new pistons, new crank, all new seals, and reassembly. So taking your time and giving it a proper going through really isn't even hard.
Sav0r the adventure.

Visit to get more information on my RD350 dubbed Mia Wallace as well as my other projects and snafus.