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Author Topic: Cb360 Reassembly Help  (Read 4832 times)

Offline cb360j

  • Posts: 70
Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
« Reply #70 on: Jul 24, 2018, 13:04:24 »
Yeah I think I learned that as of yesterday. I went to put on the steel plate first then friction etc. and got to the end and realized there are only 7 steel plates and 8 friction plates so starting with a steel plate first didnít make any sense. So I redid it. All is well now.
Problem Iím currently facing now, yesterday when installing new springs they were more tough to tighten down and one of the bolt head broke off in the clutch basket. Luckily a friend has a parts cb360 he said I can take the basket assembly from

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 13178
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
« Reply #71 on: Jul 24, 2018, 13:10:15 »
If head broke off it's easy to go from back with 5/64" or 4.5mm drill bit. Usually the bolt will wind out when drill starts cutting.. Check all the bolts for 'necking', very common for them to be stretched as torque is only about 9ft/lbs, they normally get around 14ft/lbs with a 1/4" drive ratchet. It's possible to exceed torque with a 10mm screwdriver socket
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
Best thing I ever overheard
"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"
Brian Morgan, 1982

CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline cb360j

  • Posts: 70
Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
« Reply #72 on: Jul 26, 2018, 22:31:41 »
Got the clutch back together.

Is it possible to have a clutch cable that is to long?

Online MiniatureNinja

  • Posts: 470
Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
« Reply #73 on: Jul 26, 2018, 22:44:44 »
Got the clutch back together.

Is it possible to have a clutch cable that is to long?

they usually are and that's what causes the "clutch pop" (not, as others have said, the adjuster nut)
'75 Honda CB360 - thread

Offline cb360j

  • Posts: 70
Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
« Reply #74 on: Jul 27, 2018, 09:09:59 »
Does anyone know of a shorter cable ? Or will I have to modify this one ?

I am sure someone has tried the 3" shorter motion pro cable, is it any good?
« Last Edit: Jul 27, 2018, 10:03:07 by cb360j »

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 13178
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
« Reply #75 on: Jul 27, 2018, 13:19:23 »
If you have a Dremel it's dead easy to shorten outer sheath. Use sharp knife to cut around plastic cover, Dremel with cutting wheel through the 'spring' part cutting 'straight' so cable end stays 'flat'(careful not to cut inner wire)' You may need to cut through 1-1/2 coils due the angle they are wound. Unwind' metal piece with 2 pairs pliers, pull plastic out of ferrule and slide ferrule back onto sheath. I usually cut plastic back so ferrule doesn't sit on it as it's a pretty tight fit. (maybe 1/16" inside ferrule so it doesn't look 'bodged') You only need about 1/4" off outer but if you cut more it isn't an issue as there is plenty of adjustment
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
Best thing I ever overheard
"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"
Brian Morgan, 1982

CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline cb360j

  • Posts: 70
Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
« Reply #76 on: Jul 27, 2018, 13:33:28 »
If you have a Dremel it's dead easy to shorten outer sheath. Use sharp knife to cut around plastic cover, Dremel with cutting wheel through the 'spring' part cutting 'straight' so cable end stays 'flat'(careful not to cut inner wire)' You may need to cut through 1-1/2 coils due the angle they are wound. Unwind' metal piece with 2 pairs pliers, pull plastic out of ferrule and slide ferrule back onto sheath. I usually cut plastic back so ferrule doesn't sit on it as it's a pretty tight fit. (maybe 1/16" inside ferrule so it doesn't look 'bodged') You only need about 1/4" off outer but if you cut more it isn't an issue as there is plenty of adjustment

Well it seems more like the outer sheath/shielding is actually to short and the cable inside is actually to long.
With the clutch tightened all the way in, and the adjuster all the way out, it does not rest inside the upper cable adjuster.

Offline cb360j

  • Posts: 70
Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
« Reply #77 on: Jul 27, 2018, 13:50:59 »
Took the actuator apart to clean... Noticed the three ball bearings that sit inside is gone. Does anyone have those ball bearings or even a new sprocket cover with the entire actuator for sale?

Offline advCo

  • DTT BOTM WINNER
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Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
« Reply #78 on: Jul 27, 2018, 14:06:21 »
I had to shorten my cable overall because I ran clip-ons. But I vaguely remember the exposed cable being too long as you stated. Pull the excess cable all teh way to one end and measure from the end of the jacket to the end of the ferrule. IIRC I had to take about 1/4" off that length to make it work (plus the 6" or whatever I removed to accommodate for clipons)

Took the actuator apart to clean... Noticed the three ball bearings that sit inside is gone. Does anyone have those ball bearings or even a new sprocket cover with the entire actuator for sale?

Are you sure its not greased in there? Those balls should not come out of their housing.
"He broke the mirrors off his Cadillac, 'cause he doesn't like it looking like he looks back."

74 CB360 - Luna - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=63294.0 - Sold
82 GS550L - Tracker-ish - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=67229.0 - Sold
74 XL350 - The Turd - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70252.0 - Sold
Suzuki FA50 "No-Ped" - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=71189.0
73 Suzuki RV125 -http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=73875.0
'97 BMW F650st - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=75732.0

Offline cb360j

  • Posts: 70
Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
« Reply #79 on: Jul 27, 2018, 14:13:28 »
I had to shorten my cable overall because I ran clip-ons. But I vaguely remember the exposed cable being too long as you stated. Pull the excess cable all teh way to one end and measure from the end of the jacket to the end of the ferrule. IIRC I had to take about 1/4" off that length to make it work (plus the 6" or whatever I removed to accommodate for clipons)

Are you sure its not greased in there? Those balls should not come out of their housing.

I have a set of almost flat drag bars on the bike, I did not think that going down only this much would effect the cable so much, would you advise to cut the cable to a shorter length?

Yep, I called my buddy with the parts bike before work and he said his were in there and he would drop off his entire actuator mechanism at the house so no worries there anymore.