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I haven't had any issues with my setup, but I don't push my bike too hard either. There has been a few times where I have been pushing into a curve or something and I can feel it flex a little, but nothing scary or anything.
Hey guys, the wrench is just a Biltwell sticker I threw on there.
Unfortunately I can't help you on the cdi front Jordan, but the baffle is 4" long made for 1 1/2 pipes. Got it off ebay, and 4" is the max you can go otherwise it will hit that first bend in the header pipe. Still haven't got...
Here's one on a local canyon:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHY78s3ZMG4
Here's one from my very first ride:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJ8TCL5GPlk
My cables are all stock except for the braided brake hose. Can't remember the length, I just measured from the caliper up to the new bars and used that.
I still have decent travel and plenty of clearance. You can cut the spring the same length as the spacers you added, or you can do like me and leave them a half inch longer to add some preload when you put the caps back on.
As for the glue, I used good old Super 77 spray adhesive in the can. ;)
If he cut the springs, then he likely added spacers, which is what actually causes the lowering effect. That's what I did on this bike. No need to do anything to the tubes themselves.
Almost positive they're lowered internally. I tried just sliding them up in the trees and the front end was just way too high. Internal is the way to go. I took 3" out of mine.
From wyhat I understand, the lights get their power direct from the coil, so I don't think a bigger battery would do much. My headlight dims a bit at idle, but is nice and bright while riding. My battery is 1.2 amps. Taillight has a 6v LED bulb in it and is super bright.
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