Recent content by johnson_steve

So i'm tearing down for paint soon and i want to paint my frame that sickly bright green that's traditional for these kawasakis. I'm looking for as durable a finish as possible from a rattle can (or brush if it looks ok) but since you don't see a lot of refrigerators in kawi green, I'm wondering...

So, i work at a gas station and so far I've seen 2 entire cars covered with this stuff and i love how it looks, but i'm concerned about how it will hold up on the gas tank. my brother and i sprayed his tank in grey primer a while back and it looked fantastic; until some gas dripped on it. does...

You want to match the primary coil resistance as close as possible without going lower then the stock coils. the lower the primary resistance the more current they're going to pull through your points. 1.5 to 3 ohms? You better remeasure! @1.5ohms the coils will pull DOUBLE the current as they...

The number you are worried about is the primary coil resistance, don't worry about the secondary. If the manual says 3.5 to 4.5 ohms i'd stay in that range closer to the low end, but without going under. A 3 ohm coil is going to pull more current then a 3.5 ohm coil and you might burn something...

All that means is the stress applied to the part didn't exceed it's modulus elasticity. Metal fatigue is what happens when forces lower then a parts modulus elasticity are applied over an extended period of time; this is why elevators are actually built and tested to a minimum of 5 times the...

I have; wood is the way to go. You don't just use any glue; you use the resin that you lay the fiberglass up with. I like to sand the bottom like i was going to lay down more glass (the sanding is important to promote adhesion) then i glue the wood strips and lay a thin layer of glass on top of...

So, from the op's first description of the problem it seemed fairly obvious that something broke off inside the motor. Maybe i'm paranoid, but i'm not even going to try to start a motor with a chunk of loose metal kicking around in there; as soon as i heard the snap it's time to split the cases...

Re: '71 CB250 Seat - Skateboard base solo seat.. not sure... I'm using a skateboard for my seat.

What you are looking for is a 'momentary normally closed switch' of the spst variety though that part is less important as the spdt, dpst and dpdt switches will all work too, they just have extra connections that you wont use. A 'momentary normally closed' switch will connect the two wires...

Ditto on the wd40; I use wd40 as coolent when i cut aluminum on the lathe or mill, it leaves a nice surface, blows the chips out of the way and the smoke from it evaporating leaves a pleasent smell in your garage.

One more thing, the regulator does NOT do a good enough job of suppressing surges and spikes from the magneto, that is usually handled by the battery and is what the capacitor does when you eliminate the battery.

The way you have the circuit drawn up the switch is neither before or after the points, it doesn't affect them at all. you want to disconect the wire going from the points to the switch and connect it on the other side of the switch with the wire that goes to the coil, that way when it's off it...

The rectifier converts the ac from the magneto to dc to be used by everything on the bike. The regulator on a magneto bike burns off the extra voltage, without it the magneto would make enough voltage to fry everything on the bike. The condensor is a capacitor; it cusions and smooths voltage...

I think a battery made from cats would make the bike much too moody and temperamental for daily use; in fact i think we just figured out the secret ingredient to lucas' magic smoke, it would explain a lot.

Car battery, not cat battery. Wouldn't hurt to put a condensor in there too.