Recent content by mchltshcr

Will run some tests and report back on the back popping. I can report that after my ride home from work battery was at 13.6. After sitting for a while battery was at 12.6. It appears we are charging. Sent from my iPhone

Bike appears to be charging. I cannot explain why the multimeter isn't showing the figures we'd expect, but overall I am not seeing a drop on voltage after riding with/without lights on. I'm super perplexed having checked with both a cheapo craftsman multimeter and a $200 Fluke meter. One theory...

Yea, I went back and wrapped the harness where it passes by the coils but realized in re-reading that I never ran a ground wire.

So I disconnect the OE tail and tested on the battery. Golden. Hooked back up to the harness. Golden... Swore a bit and thought there must be a loose connection somewhere. Hooked up LED tail, golden. Started bike and flickering returns. Will your R/R level this out Matt or is it the nature of...

Cool! So voltage when idling to the female tail running light wire (brown) is 11.0 vDC. I'm a bit confused at what this means. I hooked up the OE taillight and this isn't enough voltage to light her up at all. Brake works fine on the OE tail just as on the LED tail. There's loss in the system...

Also just noticed the rectifier is super warm after about 45 seconds of running. Sent from my iPhone

So just for shits and giggles I threw on the factory regulator and rectifier and the battery slowly climbs up in vDC at idle and increases on rev. However now I'm getting a bit of backfiring. Due to stator swap? Anyway, this still didn't remedy the LED running tail light from flickering...

Was thinking the replacement unit would show up by now but still nothing as of mail delivery today. Found a guy on ebay who is close by with a factory reg and rectifier available. Might pick them up short term just to get on the road until Sonreir's shows up. More to come.

Replaced the stator tonight. Showed continuity between wires that my original did not. No change to my overall issue unfortunately. Stator puts out vAC as expected but battery is seeing 17-20+ DC volts when idling.

Quick update - Wasn't able to make much progress this weekend as I'm waiting on the mailman. New reg/rectifier coming to see if that solves things. Will also be testing a friend's stator against mine when he's back in town early this week. Fingers crossed I'll be up and running by mid-week.

Yes, this is a bit odd. I'm not fully concerned on this piece since I'm seeing AC voltage generated at idle and spiked when revving. Have a second stator I can pick up from a buddy to do some long term testing. First step will be replacing the reg/rectifier. Correct - I have zero continuity...

Amend the above. Nothing about the last two seemed right. Grabbed the better multimeter and on revs hit 50-60vAC. vDC when idling is 12.2. Sent from my iPhone

1. All wires when grounded show "1" on the Ohm rating. 2. Continuity only shows a result from pink to white on the stator wires (no result on pink yellow or white yellow) 3. I see an increase of vAC when I rev. It's hard to pin down with such swings on this multimeter. Definitely not seeing...

For others who come across this I'm documenting my remaining trials: 1. Test engine ground to all stator wires except red-striped neutral (pink, yellow, white) 2. Test continuity amongst all wires again (pink to yellow, pink to white, white to yellow) 3. Test vAC from stator across pink/yellow...

What frequency does the stator put out? I can attempt to replicate 20-30vAC fed into the regulator and check battery readings. That seems like it would validate if the regulator is defective or not. Sent from my iPhone