Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
You can have the cam lobes resurfaced Ive had it done and it looks brand new..Can cost more than a 2nd hand cam but if you cant find one its an option..
The wrap maybe to thick, as they can be tight fit near the frame rails even without wrap...also use rubber bands on the split collars to hold them in place makes it heaps easier, they will shoot off or melt on first run :)
I prefer https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear-bikes.aspx ...I use this site's calcs/converters all the time :)
Im aware of the general changes see attached pdf file...but am curious as to the added strain on the transmission due to added force needed to move a smaller tighter curved sprocket...
Thanks for the quick reply
Already check out some of the calcs..Im aware of the cause and effect of the change, but have no knowledge of the consequences of running smaller sprockets :)
cheers
Hi
Gearing for some reason does my head in ;)
Original gearing was 14 front 38 rear, 110/90/18 wheel size
due to not being able to get a 38 rear at a reasonable price and locally(bike is an old grey import) I opted for 36 tooth rear
so now I have 14 front 36 rear and 120/90/18 wheels...
No ear plugs or phones for me....its bad enough having to cover your senses with a helmet....If I don't see em, I wanna hear em coming. I also like to hear the bike talk ;)
I just use a big assed flat blade screw driver, slide it down or up the neck till you feel the lip,then wack it with a decent hammer. Work around it in quarters till it pops out sometimes the lip will be flush with the neck but you can always feel the join...To fit new ones I use the old races...
Ahh ok....I just welded a tab on rear most part of the hoop angled to flow onto the guard..I also frenched the guard into the hoop, its a thin light alloy one so one tab should be fine :)
maybe a pic will help...
another way that I think works well is this...
ADR in as Australian design rules?...If so the rear guard ADR has just recently been changed for newer bikes, and depending on where you are you maybe able to get away with very little guard...
Anyway you need to leave space for mud and tyre expansion if going hugger style...or if frame mounted...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.