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Disregard, I got them side loaded just a hair of a fraction. I realized I could push on the spacer sleeve to check. It moved, but was very tight, not at all "touching but just barely." Gotta take it to a shop because I only have a pusher-inner not a puller-outer. ::)

Hey all, just finished installing new bearings into a new repro rear hub for my CL100. They were a bastard to get in, and I'm worried because they're pretty tight. Like, you can't spin the inner race with a finger without exerting some force. However, when you stick a finger into a race on...

I cleared some space off of my "mostly flat" workbench (I checked it the other day and it was inside of 0.5 mm but not perfect) and laid the wheel flat. It is sort of potato-chipped but not by a lot. (That's a .8mm feeler in there, not the actual measurement but there for scale.) I'm on the...

Backstory: I've got a 19" Pro Wheel spoked rim that I got for free. Came off of someone's mid 2000's Yamaha TTR125L. Never really got around to looking at it too hard because it had a broken spoke, sat on the "I'll deal with this someday" pile. I took the tire and tube off today, and it's one...

I know it's a ghetto fix, but hey, a card of permatex is like $5 at your FLAPS, and a lapper is probably about the same. The local engine builder place will A.) probably look at me like I've gone batshit insane for bringing in what's basically a lawnmower engine, and B.) Charge me $20 per seat...

Sounds good to me. I'll be sure to get a new chain because both of the ones I have are of unknown mileage and about the best I can say about them is "they look shiny" ::) I'm not quite clear on the sharpie method though- I know I put the sharpie on the seat, but am I spinning the valve a full...

The timing would require you to switch to a hall sensor and a magnet on a rotor, in the spot where your points previously went. Pretty sure this also means you take out the mechanical advance, as it gets handled electronically. Hall effect detects that magnet going by, so it's sort of like a...

Got on it a bit more today, probably about as good as I'm gonna get it without a new head. Did 320 then 600 then 1000 just for giggles. Here it is with my "good" valves in: What stumps me is those black "flecks." They look like nasty pits, but the chamber is smooth as can be- running a finger...

I mentioned it mainly because it was also in the realm of many-beer ideas, not that it would make for a practical EFI conversion. ;) Anyways, in terms of the manifold idea, the biggest problem you'd have is working out the proper volume and layout. There's some science to it, and there's also...

While a little baby manifold would be a sight to see, I think the consensus is IRTB is probably easier. I think the main advantage of a manifold (at least on cars) is being able to meter one air mass, but I'm pretty sure that's mainly for idle and fuel efficiency reasons. Probably what would...

It's a 1971 Honda CL100 mill that had sat outside for a long time and seized. Jug and piston were totally trashed (Actually had to use a 100 ton shop press to separate them) so I got a CB125S jug and piston to replace it. I bored out the case to accept the new jug via hand, found another CL100...

Well this is the best head I have, everything else has bent fins or worse. Also, the sealing area with a 125 cylinder is pretty much all outside of that edge pitting!

Hahaha someone already had. I didn't buy it though.

Do you really need a perfect mirror finish in your chambers or is something that's smooth to the touch good enough? After getting my head soda blasted it was still a bit icky and pitted. Since this is a 100cc head going on a 125cc jug, I realize that the comp ratio is going to be a bit high...

Derp, totally forgot to mention that somewhat critical piece of info! It's a '71 CL100 (1 piece head) that I've bored the case on to fit grcamna5's 125cc jug he sold me. 8) It's a $3.89 bearing, so I'm not opposed to just chalking it up to experience and finding a Z, I'm just frustrated that...

I spent some time digging through various reading materials about bearings and their applications, seems like there's a few possible scenarios... 1- Honda got "Z" bearings for cheap because they used them in something else (likely) 2- It was to simplify installation / prevent contamination if...

You guys are the best at answering these sorts of questions, so I'm back again! ;D I need to put together a thread about this build I'm working on (eventually) but I have a quick question about one of my case bearings. 6202Z bearings are NLA through Honda and hard to find otherwise. As luck...

OK so I guess the consensus is to just leave 'em be, but if I want to pretty them up a bit, which is more acceptable for powdercoating over- body filler or brazing? I know both aren't exactly cheap, the filler is decent $ and so are the brazing rods, so I may just call it a day and get it...

My only experience with welding is looking at welds, so go easy on me. :P I understand the basic concepts, how they can go wrong, and what a bad weld looks like, but I have exactly 0 minutes experience on a welding machine of any type. You mentioned brazing, I know TIG brazing is a thing, but...

It looks like the entire thing was stick welded. Funny how you look at the CL100 engine and it's this neato, slick engineered little mill that they kept relevant and alive well into the 80's, then the frame is just sort of... well here's some stamped steel and tubes stick welded together...