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Can't believe someone read this post and commented on it again. But, since you did, let me tell you that I learned a lot from my experience and ultimately getting into the motor helped me to correct some underlying issues that ultimately would have shortened the life of this bike. One of the...

Hardly foiled. I'm not fooled. Honestly, you are not my type. Please stop flirting with me, really. ben

Everyone calm down. Everything will be alright. -- The lapping was done lightly, just to remove minor pitting. I researched this quite a bit before doing it. It is fine to do this on these valves. -- I did use a straight edge and feeler gauges to check the head. -- Yes, I used a scotchbrite pad...

It is all for you and your "entertainment"... :o ben

Inching towards getting this thing back together. Still waiting on parts, so trying to stay busy. Got the valves cleaned up as best as I could. 30 years of baked on carbon and grime sure is tedious to clean. Also lapped the valves. I also got a good straight edge and checked the head. It is...

Successfully installed the Time-Sert today with the help of my wife as an extra set of hands. I was pretty concerned about getting the hole drilled nice and square/true. Because of this, I searched around for different types of drill guides and ended up getting one of the Gator units off...

Got the pistons cleaned up. Used a fine brass wire wheel chucked to my hand drill. Took some time, but turned out good. ben

Already got some of the mating surfaces cleaned up and some parts on order. ben

No way to fix that except for tearing down the motor, so out it came again from the frame. And she is now all in pieces again. Will repair the threads with a Time-Sert. Plan is to do a few things while it is apart: -- new piston rings, and hone the cylinders -- mill the head to make sure it is...

So, if you've been following along, you know I've been chasing down the cause of an oil leak. Ultimately discovered the suspect head stud was pulling the threads from the engine case, hence why it wouldn't torque properly. See attached pic of the threads still attached to the stud when I pulled...

Pics were before I cleaned up the studs. ben

Won a front wheel off eBay. It is from an early 80's GL1100. It is 18" x 2.5" to replace the stock 19" x 2.15". Should give me better tire choices, reduce rolling weight a tad, and handle better. ben

Got my superbike bars and mounted them up. I really like the position and how it transforms the bike. Disregard the missing mirror. I ordered the wrong ones, and waiting for a replacement that isn't reverse threaded on the right side. ben

Pulled the valve cover last night to test my theory on the oil leak. The left rear head stud had two copper washers on it, one stock, the other thinner and smaller diameter. It also had some gasket sealer on it. If you recall, I once found this one finger loose, and couldn't confidently get it...

Newly developed oil leak as seen in attached pic. I think it is from that one head stud nut that was loose. Looks like the thread lock didn't hold or the copper washer isn't sealing. Picked up a new/used cap nut from the local salvage yard along with a washer from a poor engine left out in the...

Inside diameter of the stock front rotors and the other Honda models I listed is 58mm. So that part is confirmed good. The offset of the stock front rotor is 26mm, and offset of the CBR600F3 front rotors is 17mm -- just to show the difference. So about a 10mm spacer will be needed (yes...

Gotcha. Thanks for the link. That is really helping me verify some figures. ben

Even still, I'm not sure I'd attempt this myself. My drill press isn't the highest quality, and I'm afraid it isn't very reliable for precision work. I cheaped out when I bought it. And it is the brakes after all. If I got anything out of alignment it might not mean disaster, but surely wouldn't...

I should have added that I need to tear down the brake calipers and verify they aren't gummed up behind the piston seals. I have a feeling they are, because they aren't retracting as they should and holding onto the rotors pretty good at the moment in the relaxed position. So new seal kits are...

So the next thing I want to tackle is the brakes. They aren't performing very well at the moment. The front master cylinder is very new and so are the brake lines themselves, but they are the rubber type. The brake pads are not wearing evenly, the rear pads are in bad need to of being replaced...