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Couple real quick questions. 1. The long bolts that hold the cylinders to the lower half, how important is it that they all have washers? Because I only have like 4 so I'm thinking that's why I leak oil, because they are just a tiny bit too long. 2. should I undo the entire thing so I can get...

That's a good idea! I'll see what I can find. So how should I go about cleaning this? Should I soak it in something? I figure if I have it off might as well soak it. Or should I just clean it one piece at a time? Why yes those are perfectly good boot with no cracks!

So I went and bought a complete head from a scrap yard a couple hours away for $100, guy said it looks good and all the valves Are in good shape. Also ordered a whole new rebuild kit because it was a couple bucks cheaper and will be here in a few days vs. a few weeks for a head gasket from...

Bump! Make an offer! I'll more then likely take it.

I agree, and this one just wants to screw with me and tease me with being so close to being finished knowing I am strapped till the next kid pops out!

I lied! Those were out of stock. I am having a damn hard time finding any new valves. What if I either bought used valves and had them reground or bought a used head from a salvage yard?

So the plan is, buy new valves and get seats cut. And slap it back together with the current head gasket?

I happen to know a machinist who could indicate the stems...as for cutting seats I am SOL. True, I guess $60 plus shipping isn't the worst price for all new intake valves. THIS WAS A PARTS BIKE!!! I guess I should have probably bought a running bike instead of buying a basket case and trying...

All new, as in exhaust too? WHY DID YOU HAVE TO SAY THAT!!! I honestly don't know if there is a local machine shop that has the right bit to do the 3 bevel cut needed.

Alright so here it is... That little pin broke, which in turn made the timing way off. So when I went to time the motor I was very very off... and now I have bent intake valves. I did a leak down with brake clean on the exhaust valves and they didn't drip any liquid, one or two may have had...

I beg a little wd40 will clean that surface rust off and it'll be good to go!

I will do that tomorrow then, it will be my luck with this bike that all the valves are bent!

I'm betting that's it. I will check as soon as I can. This has probably bent my valves I'm guessing it's way off, is there any easy way to test to see if they are bent while the valve cover is off?

So this maybe a dumb question, but is the piston actually supposed to be at TDC when the 1.4 t mark lines up with the tooth? Because mine doesn't. The picture below show the Piston at TDC.

I don't know why that never occurred to me....

Ok, First thing I will look at is cam sproket just to make sure it is correct as that is the only thing I can think could be off between now and pre-re-rebuild. Then once I can get the sweet moola for a compression tester I will test that and report back. I will check all the carbs to make sure...

Well that is good at least. I did readjust the valves, I always do when I split the two.

Okay, lets start with compression. Have you done a compression check since you rebuilt? Look there first. I haven't, it ran well with the first rebuild then I took the head off and just did a gasket swap with no other changes, can't really imagine anything going wrong with the rings. I will...

Smoking out the old tail pipe, choke/nochock makes no difference D I duck with the throttle a bit holding it in just the right spots it tries a little harder but zero success

To elaborate on the smoking issue in case someone has ideas... After the second motor rebuild to fix the new oil leak I installed K&N RC-2362 air filters ( http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=rc-2362 ) to replace my EMGO pod filters. I had re-jetted the carbs to 42/120 and have...