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Thanks for all the tips. I just ordered some new points because I've had to adjust these so many times they're probably just worn out, hoping new ones will hold their adjustment longer. I'll pick up some carb cleaner too, I couldn't remember what I'm supposed to use to find air leaks, I just...

I just saw your reply but this morning I made sure the jets were clean (unclogged) and noticed that the popping is only coming out of the upper exhaust which is the right hand side cylinder. I also noticed that occasionally a pop will make the carb move, it looks like its being kicked out by the...

Hey guys, on my 75 Honda CL360 I've been building for almost 3 years now I have two issues: there is a popping noise at idle and when I put the choke on the engine dies. The carbs were rebuilt by PJ but I may not have them adjusted just right. Any suggestions on where to start?

So I got the new mosfet R/R intalled and my results look much better. I have over 15 volts coming out of the R/R. The battery shows 13.2v at idle. When revving the engine it goes up slightly to about 13.4 which tells me there is enough being sent to keep it charged. Switching to lithium has been...

Now I wish I would have waited, I already ordered the part for the Buell. What are the dimensions of the Sparck Moto 12V Single Phase Regulator/Rectifier? I don't see that on the site.

Guess what happens when you read? you learn stuff. EarthX's website specifically says If you have a vintage bike, older than 1990, you must verify you bike has a modern charging system/regulator that keeps the voltage between 13.8V-14.6V or do not use a lithium battery. So a friend of mine says...

I'm getting 0.5 Ohms between the two stator wires. none of the other readings match up to what they should be either. Did I mention that I have a Lithium-ion battery from EarthX ? It requires a special charger so it just occurred to me, why would the bike's old system keep the battery charged...

I was able to tighten them down using shims from scrap metal, thanks Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON

Thanks for all the suggestions. I wrote Dime City where I got the mufflers who said they are made of steel and do not compress. So how do they normally tighten onto the exhaust? Or do they all need to be cut? Seems strange. I'll try the can shim trick before cutting them but if all else fails...

I've never worked with exhaust before so there may be a super simple answer here but the exhaust on my 75 CL360 is 1.5" outside diameter. The mufflers that I bought have an inside diameter of 1.5". When I slip the mufflers on they are very loose. I've broken 4 bolts tightening down the 1.5"...

Thank you for responding, I appreciate it. So I'm waiting on some parts before I can put fuel back in the tank and then I can start the engine. Question: For steps 1 and 2, do I do this with the engine off? Just asking because for step 3 you said "with the engine running". I also updated my...

Hey guys, I don't know how many of you remember me or not, I mostly finished my build last year but the bike wasn't charging the battery and then the winter came so I stopped working on it. Now it's spring time and want to ride. Could someone please take a look at my wiring diagram and help me...

Thanks, I just read a bunch of reviews on Caswell which are very positive. So the bike is running good, it still had little backfires when decelerating and it's not charging. Seems like I'll never be done Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON

so my right idle jet was clogged a little bit. when I drained the right float bowl there were a bunch of little particles that came out with it, most likely rust. that Red Kote product I put in the tank is pretty much all gone and the fuel is tinted slightly red. a friend just told me to not use...

Yeah the washers were a mistake, I can fix that next time I take the carbs off. PJ, I know you're an advocate for longer exhaust. I did order some mufflers. It was running really good on Sunday except for the high idle. The only thing I changed was syncing the carbs and put on better pods. I'm...

Ok so I got the carbs back on and the new K&N R1060 pods which are all one piece of rubber basically so there's no flange getting in the way like with Emgo pods. It sounds pretty rough but at least its not idling at 3000 RPMs. Could someone listen to it and let me know if I need to be doing...

yeah I used a vice grip on the U shaped part and pliers to hold the arm from moving. It worked out in the end, just took time to figure out what was wrong. I'm pretty stoked that they're synced now, can't wait to get them reinstalled and see how it runs tonight. I've asked before with no replies...

That did it. I forgot to take a pic from the same angle but after straightening that out I was able to get them synced !!! Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON

Actually the lower arm is the one that looks bent, can anyone confirm? Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON

After further research I found that the top arm needs to go up while keeping the lower arm where it is so I don't think a new spring is the answer. I'm going to try bending that upper arm a little Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON