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I'm mostly just wondering what the general consensus is regarding using the "stock" secondary main jets for the respective carb bodies - I think I will source a matching carb body at some point to make it consistent. Again, it's running. Not perfectly, but it starts and goes places. At some...

Got the bike back up and running this weekend. I'm thinking it was an air leak from one of the boots on the airbox side of the carbs...mine seem to require a bit of strategy to really get a good seal, and it would make sense since those were removed and reinstalled while swapping out the...

So I had the bike going for a few months, well enough to get it inspected with a clean bill of health. All of a sudden, I am having trouble getting it to remain running (would be hard to start, then stall after a few seconds, seems like a fuel issue to me). I am in the process of going through...

From what I could see from the later model 1976 Cb360s, the starter button gets power from the black wire and switches between the yellow/red wire to the solenoid and the black/red wire to the headlight (from what I understand on the later model 1976s, power is always running to the headlight...

In the Honda service manual, there is a supplemental wiring diagram for the 1976 models that has the headlight on/off switch (although I was under the impression that all 1976 models did not have this type of right-hand switch). So it appears I do have a CB360 switch, just from some...

Alright, so I am still having issues. I was able to find a wiring diagram for the 1976 model that has the green/red and yellow/red wires connecting at the starter button. Attached both wires to an aftermarket switch, but still no luck. Examining the rest of the wiring, I have come across a...

So I took a look at the indicator lights. Made sure all the connections were working to the best of my abilities. I switched the front signals at their connections in the headlight bucket to see if I could duplicate the results. From what I can tell, the turn signal itself is not working as...

Awesome, that's exactly what I'm looking for! I'll probably rig it up sometime this week and report back Sent from my XT1565 using DO THE TON mobile app

I'm thinking it's already been wired to accommodate the CB550 switch since it was working prior to breaking it, although I can't see where there there have been any modifications to the wiring harness. I guess I'm just trying to figure out why it worked before and how I can get it to work...

Am I rerouting a solid green ground wire from elsewhere in the switch housing? All that was originally connected was the green/red and yellow/red wires. See below thread: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=80532.0 The controls in this thread are exactly like mine. Can't rule out...

I'll certainly check that out. I didn't think of that being the issue seeing as how the other ones are working, but I'll crack into it and see if that does the trick. Sent from my XT1565 using DO THE TON mobile app

Sorry, I should clarify (as much as I can) - the wires from the front turn signals that have a one on one connection (can't recall if these are the solid or striped orange and light blue wires) trigger the continuity light. The wires that have the 2 into 1 connection on both turn signals do...

I know there are numerous threads regarding aftermarket starter buttons, but I can't seem to find one that fits my application. I have a 1976 CB360 with, from what I can tell, a right hand switch from one of the previous years based on the fact that it has the headlight on/off switch. I broke...

I tried to duplicate the test on the turn signal wires on the left side as well - continuity light came on for the running lights, but nothing for the actual flasher wire on either side. Is there somewhere else I should be grounding the continuity tester for those particular wires? Or should I...

Trying to eradicate the gremlins from my CB360. Currently, the right front blinker does not work. Running lights work on both sides, and both rear blinkers and left front turn signal work as well. Tried a couple of bulbs in the right turn signal assembly to rule out one of the dual filaments...

Honda god showed mercy - I pulled the valve cover and the tappet screw was sitting tucked away by the valve spring. Reinstalled, everything reassembled, timing set. etc. Compression test tomorrow and syncing carbs if all is well. If it still the will of a loving Honda god, then the bike...

So looking at disassembled engine parts on eBay...if it did fall in to the can shaft channel, most likely it is sitting in the well at the bottom - from what I can tell, oil comes into the well from a valley on the back side of the engine and not underneath it from the sump. So it looks like...

Ah, thank you, good point. Might source a tappet screw from a parts bike and give it a try. Unless...say the screw fell down the cam chain well. Could it potentially make its way to the kickstart mechanism? Or would it most likely stay parked in the front half of the engine under the...

As I was going to adjust my tappet clearances, I found that the left hand intake tappet screw is missing. I know it was in there originally when I got the bike because this is my second go around with adjusting them. I have yet to perform a compression test, and figured if I'm going to remove...

Thanks for the extra info! The rebuild kit came with 100 and 110 jets, seemed to be running a little lean with the 100s, so the 110s were put in. I don't think I super saturated the filters, but maybe enough so that the 100s weren't cutting it. Might try some 105s to split the difference...