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Pffffft I have a block of wood and a saw... :D kool build thread, I have a soft spot for Italian meccanica

Hehe the white shroud reminds me of the flying nun :D

You can have the cam lobes resurfaced Ive had it done and it looks brand new..Can cost more than a 2nd hand cam but if you cant find one its an option..

2nd thumbs up for Gimp as its available for most OS's. If your using windows paint.net is also good and has a much easier learning curve

You can do laced wheel diy style, shouldn't cost a heap if you can do fab work yourself http://motosynthesis.blogspot.com/p/products.html?m=1

The wrap maybe to thick, as they can be tight fit near the frame rails even without wrap...also use rubber bands on the split collars to hold them in place makes it heaps easier, they will shoot off or melt on first run :)

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I prefer https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear-bikes.aspx ...I use this site's calcs/converters all the time :) Im aware of the general changes see attached pdf file...but am curious as to the added strain on the transmission due to added force needed to move a smaller tighter curved sprocket...

Thanks for the quick reply Already check out some of the calcs..Im aware of the cause and effect of the change, but have no knowledge of the consequences of running smaller sprockets :) cheers

Hi Gearing for some reason does my head in ;) Original gearing was 14 front 38 rear, 110/90/18 wheel size due to not being able to get a 38 rear at a reasonable price and locally(bike is an old grey import) I opted for 36 tooth rear so now I have 14 front 36 rear and 120/90/18 wheels...

No ear plugs or phones for me....its bad enough having to cover your senses with a helmet....If I don't see em, I wanna hear em coming. I also like to hear the bike talk ;)

Np..... do the top one first as it tends to be easier, it also gives you a slightly sharper angle on the lower one

I just use a big assed flat blade screw driver, slide it down or up the neck till you feel the lip,then wack it with a decent hammer. Work around it in quarters till it pops out sometimes the lip will be flush with the neck but you can always feel the join...To fit new ones I use the old races...

Ahh ok....I just welded a tab on rear most part of the hoop angled to flow onto the guard..I also frenched the guard into the hoop, its a thin light alloy one so one tab should be fine :) maybe a pic will help... another way that I think works well is this...

ADR in as Australian design rules?...If so the rear guard ADR has just recently been changed for newer bikes, and depending on where you are you maybe able to get away with very little guard... Anyway you need to leave space for mud and tyre expansion if going hugger style...or if frame mounted...

The Velocity Stack (cherry on top) turned up today...I only potter around the block on it, about 100 kays a year so it shouldn't hurt to much and it looks so right :)

mikuni 34mm flat slide carby...bye bye cv carby

If those are your preferred bikes Id go with the XV750 ...check out gumtree and bikesales.com.au redbook.com.au/bikes/ https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-motorcycles/xv750/k0c18626 The cx500 being water cooled, old water cooled bikes can have another whole level of issues that can get expensive...(Im...

Well that brings back some memory's, was my one and only brand new bike :D

Here is a pic on how WM (JDM accessory maker) do the honda GB rod to cable conversion. maybe it will give you some ideas ....