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You can use 3M Hi-Strength but it dries harder than the florist foam, so after sanding, a raised line of adhesive is left at each seam. I would use super 77 or 45. Elmers also works.

Yeah, you're not him but that's still pretty damn coincidental. He is an Embassy Guard and was stationed in Israel last I heard. Good luck with the project this weekend! Typically, the lay up for each layer on a seat takes me about a 1/2 hour. I usually do six layers for a seat - two layers...

I've never had a chance to touch and feel any Airtech products but they look to be relatively high quality for the price.

I'm a bit perplexed. I'm relatively new here, and don't know you but does this mean you're done with cafe bikes and moving on to scooters? That's bizarre. I've got lots of buddies in the scooter scene here in Denver and I'm a big fan of clean, stylish vintage scooters but when I pull up to the...

I love the look of a 1/4 fairing, I'm considering making one for my 750F.

Btw, you'r not in the marines, are you? I had a buddy from school that joined up and goes by Slick.

This is a constant debate. On one side, some say cutting the fibers more than necessary reduces strength. But, it can be argued that overlapping many small pieces adds strength. The way I look at it, they don't manufacture woven cloth for no reason, it offers strong linear rigidity, so I cut...

Yes, you can just seal it with foil and adhesive or aluminum tape works well too. Epoxy resins have higher strength, are more rigid, less brittle, have less shrinkage and are more chemical resistant than most polyester resins. They are also significantly more expensive. Any polyester resin...

Of course not! I said above that it's way too cold to cure outside. I have a heated shop, stays around 75f

Instead of building a flat pan and relying on foam to create the curvature, I would build the pan up with a nice arch down the middle that tapers off just inside the outer edge of your frame rails.

I forgot to mention and this is crucial - If you don't intend to seal that foam, test a spot on the other half of the helmet with the resin and hardener to make sure it doesn't eat it. If it does, you're going to have to seal the mold before lay up.

My first time, I way over did it with the resin. After the resin kicks, each layer should be dull; if you have shiny, "slick" looking spots you used a bit too much resin.You want just enough to saturate the fibers without any excess resin above or below each layer. More than 90% of the...

oldog, Out of curiosity, how long did you let the part cure after final layup before separating from the mold? When I did my seat, I wanted to yank it from the mold the second the resin got hard but I waited till the next day. If you pulled yours right away with no complications, I may do...

I hope a tank doesn't burn me out on fiberglass, I really enjoy working with composites. I was building a gate outside of my shop the other day and I remembered thinking to myself, "You know, I'd really prefer to be laying up some fiber right now." I got up at 4 yesterday to spray some gel...

The only problem with this is the spray liner would be mechanically bonded to the plug (which would later be melted away). The seal would then be dependent on how well the next layer was bonded to the liner.

CC, I just read the build thread for your tank - very impressive work. Thanks for sharing that with us. Soon I'll start building a fiberglass tank for a motorized bicycle project I'm doing. I figure, less material, less time and a great learning experience before I tackle the tank on my...

Yeah, I suppose that post could have used a couple of breaks. I'll blame it on sleep deprivation.

I beg to differ

Going for another foam is an option. I use the ultra soft green foam for artificial plants. I've you're making a mold off the bike, I highly recommend this stuff - it's cheap, compatible with poly resins and extremely easy to work with. On the bike, these blocks are so soft, they're hard to...

Not that you can complain much about your seat, it turned out fantastic!