Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
bump, entries are slow-going.
going to give this another week and if it doesn't start to fill up we will be canceling the raffle and refunding all entries, and I guess I'll move onto listing the bike for sale.
May have found the culprit. The brass air port at the bottom of the inlet on the right carb had some shmootz
In it. I pulled both carbs again and I can blow carb cleaner through the left one but not the right one. Guessing that’s causing the rich condition.....they’re now both in the ultrasonic...
So the points in the 450 are in fact stamped “Japan” - but I took them apart and did the common-motor mods reccomended in the video. Filed and set gaps to .014 , and noticed the advancer springs were so loose it would wobble a bunch so I snipped the springs down a touch and re-hooked the ends to...
OK, on the 360 last night I swapped coils and the problem didn't follow. So I pulled off the airboxes to see whats going on with the carbs while running as I had a hunch maybe the choke plate was maybe faulty or something like that. Low and behold I realize the right side throttle slide wasn't...
how were you able to determine that? revving to an RPM and attempting to hold it steady enough while spraying at the boots with some carb clean to see if it jumps enough that you know it wasn't your throttle control raising it?
SO - I've been working on two bikes here that I've gone completely through and both are exhibiting similar symptoms that I can't seem to figure out the root cause of.
Bike 1: 1975 CB360
- ultrasonic cleaned and rebuilt carbs - floats set to 20mm
- rebuilt petcock
- new points and condenser
-...
your factory tire sizes are showing a 2.5% smaller circumference rear tire that's also 20% wider than the front. stick with those percentages give or take to make the least amount of change to overall geometry. the trouble is to get that you're looking at a 120/70/18 rear tire which typically is...
Working on a set of carbs for a 1980 gs550e and #2 had a broken post previous owner tried to repair with JBweld. Looking for a replacement #2 body or a full rack of rebuildable carbs I can clean and install kits in.
Please email nick.moto@citylimitmoto.com for fastest response
you may also lose steering radius due to forks contacting your fuel tank. geometry also heavily depends on front wheel/tire size as well. there are some good calculator sites available to help with the math for rake and trail where you can input stock numbers then play around with fork length...
the original coils are wired as follows:
Both coils are bolted to a pair of aluminum mounts, which they are mounted to the frame under the tank with a ground wire eyelet. This is how the coils get ground. There will be a black wire with white tracer that provides switched 12v to the pair of...
I borrowed your first pic for illustration.
Blue goes into the sprocket side of the wheel, the dust seal holds it in place.
Red goes flange-side into the rotor side of the wheel, then the caliper mounting bracket goes between that and the small spacer circled in yellow.
hopefully that makes...
Yes they are...just may have to tweak jetting and such.
the trouble with these carbs is the individual idle set screws, individual throttle cables, and the sync of course.
What I do first is run the idle screws all the way out so they're both bottomed out. Then adjust the throttle cables so...
2mm might be OK...
the bonus with the axial calipers is you can get high tolerance shim washers if necessary and add 2mm of clearance by putting washers between the mount and the caliper, catch is you'd have to also resolve that change in the rotor mounting, so may also need rotor spacers to...
what I've been doing on carb sync's lately is a neat trick I learned from a brit down in georgia. I sync with gauges the old-fashioned way, and then do a double check with an infrared laser thermometer. if the cyl's are within 10* of each other....you aren't getting any better than that....just...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.