Search results

OK, so Im a little confused. The bike would roll and start OK after the fall. The motor turned over at least three times when trying the kickstarter, then locked up. So, have you tried the roll test after the lockup, because it still sounds to me you have a transmission lockup, not the motor...

Will the motor move at all? Even a little bit. Is the gear lever bent from the fall? Its possible the gear selector shaft that runs across the transmission from the gear lever to behind the clutch basket has been dislodged and is now pushed into the back of the clutch basket jamming the...

It is easy to 'pinch' the float bowl gaskets when assembling causing them to bulge inside the bowl touching and jamming the float. But first, just try tapping the side of the bowl with a screwdriver handle or similar. Sometimes thats all it takes.

For information about high performance rods and pistons check out Davies Motorsport in England. These guys built a 500/4 racer for the Isle of Mann TT a few years ago. Their goal was 75 hp (about 30hp more than stock) and they used special rods and lightweight 2 ring pistons...

Im looking for some better braking from the front brake on my 500/4. ATM its got a modern m/s 14mm from a VTR1000. (Superhawk in the U.S.) Also braided stainless line to a stock caliper. Cant remember what pads are in it. I get good initial bite that promises better things to come, but from...

I think you are on the right track looking at the needle area of that right carb. Clearly something is amiss/damaged with that carb that adjustments to settings make no difference. I would chase up a different carb/carb body and replace.

When a motor runs better on choke, it usually means you got a big air leak somewhere. Get some carb cleaner and spray it around the rubber intake boots where the carbs join the intake mainifolds with the motor running. Be sure to spray it nice and close to the boots so the spray is not being...

A proper petcock in good condition already has a very fine brass gauze filter. No need for an inline one. Honda did not use one originally. If there is rust in the tank, etch it out and seal it properly.

I'd say your first and second issue has to do with carb sync. This needs to be done properly with vacuum gauges. Your third issue raises the question: What are you trying to acheive? Shorter primary gearing and longer secondary gearing will give quicker pickup but lower top speed. And visa versa.

I had the same problem with my 500. Because I was running stacks I figured it was getting heaps of air and leaning out at WOT. So I kept getting bigger on the main jet. Went right up to 135 on the main and still had the same thing happening. Bike ran great and pulled hard all the way to about...

If there is plenty of power in the battery and the engine spins over easily, you need to start with spark. Pull a plug, rest it against the motor so its earthed, hit the starter button and look at the spark. Is it good and strong, easy to see, or weak and hardly there at all. If good spark...

If this was my bike I would be taking that head home from the shop and dismantling those valves myself. Making sure that valve stem seal is in place. The problem has clearly arisen from the rebuild the shop did. They fcuked up somehow. If No.4 rings are OK, not broken, no serious scoring of...

No.4 piston is telling the story. Too much carbon there for normal. With the amount of oil smoke you are describing my bet would be oil coming down from the top through the valve stem seal as opposed from up past the rings. Did this oil burning happen from straight after the rebuild. Did they...

Have you removed the long bolt from within the sump area. 10mm head from memory. It threads up from the bottom case and is easily overlooked.

Why doesnt the motor turn over? The photo in your post shows a fairly clean looking engine. Has it been exposed to the weather? Sometimes these things have a simple explanation. e.g. bike has fallen on its gear lever side and bent the gear selector shaft, or pushed it up against the back of the...

On my 500 I'm running stock carbs with velocity stacks & Bills B racing filters and 4 into 1 exhaust. My carb setup is 130 mains with 42 slows, stock needle on third clip. The bike has good power pretty much everywhere. A slight dip as the needle comes in just before half throttle, then pulls...

You wont be able to use the 500 fork internals in the 750 lowers. Even the 550 fork inards were different to the 500. Just use the 750 forks complete. As far as the length goes, just pull them up through the triples to the correct length. Spring rate of the 750 will be different to the stock...

If your going to do the plug chops for the entire fuel range you should start from the top. i.e. you do the plug chop for WOT first. Get the bike running properly on the main jet first. Then do the chop on the needle position. This is for throttle position from 1/4 to 3/4. When you get that...

Different carbs have different adjustments for the idle mix. Some need to be turned in for a richer mixture, some need to be turned out for a richer mixture. Set the idle mixture screws to what the manual states and then ride the bike at normal operating temp. Then ride for a few minutes at 1/8...

The bigger the bore the more power you can generate at the piston. The smaller the bore the more feel you will have at the lever. I used a modern MS on my 500/4 from a Honda VTR1000 at 14mm. It is a good combination of both power and feel.