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Just noticed that's not a CL tank! What is it?

Very clean so far. Your frame looks heavily modified missing gussets, tabs, etc.; did it start out as a CL350 frame? Also, I notice the bottom of your tank is level with the horizontal frame rails. I've tried to do this with mine as well (see picture), elevating it almost 2 inches; I think the...

That'll work; I'm just not into grinding and welding on my recently powder-coated frame. I was thinking maybe of a loose stand that is carried elsewhere on the bike and then inserted into a new fitting that would bolt onto the original bracket.

Have you mounted your kickstand yet? I have the same rearsets as you and the kick stand is right where your foot needs to be. I also got rid of my center stand. Haven't come up with a solution yet. Any ideas?

Wow, that's a big upgrade. A little off topic, but have you heard of the Australian TSS 500 conversion? Now that would be a handful.

Woo hoo! Parts back from the powder coater. Head and cylinders went to engine dude for final reassembly. The rest is here. $315 for everything seemed OK. Also said goodbye to an old friend; sold my RS250 today :-[

Good looking exhaust, has the feel of a flat tracker. Why not just use safety wire on the exhaust wrap?

Finished with the brakes!

Zinc parts back from the plater. I do love shiny parts. Should be getting the frame and other parts back from the powder coater in a few days and then its re-assembly time.

The black paint protects the welds, gives a nice "shadow" effect behind the polished heat shield and, together with some new stainless hardware, looks sweet.

Great suggestions. I had a muffler repair shop weld over the rot for $50 and I painted the area of the repair and hidden part of the muffler with black metallic high temp paint.

Talk about bad design. The drain tube is located on the uphill side of the muffler when the bike is leaned over on the kickstand. So here's the question; can this thing be repaired? Would I have to cut a section out and re-weld and then rechrome? How about a molded sheet metal patch, JB welded...

Forks reassembled by driving the seal with a 1 1/4 inch section of PVC pipe (not a sprocket that wouldn't fit over the tube, duh). On to the exhaust; original is beautiful on the outside but upon disassembly found JB weld covering the bottom corner of the upper canister (surprise number 4). I...

A guy in Denver, Mile High Polishing, Inc., jose@milehighpolishing.com

Did you sell this?

Nice. What did you use for brake and clutch levers/perches?

More fork pictures

Fork rebuild was fairly easy. Use an impact wrench to loosen the bold on the bottom of the fork slider. All other parts come out with the help of a snap ring pliers. I had a lot of corrosion on the tubes so I found a NOS pair in France (they're getting scarce) and replaced the springs and oil...

Starting in on the front brake rebuild, I removed everything and then tried to remove the worm gear. Bad idea. I got the roll pin out but then busted off the spline trying to pull out the gear. Doh :( So I bought another used brake case on Ebay which is why it wasn't in the previous polished...

Third interesting find is a cracked alternator cover. Bought another one on Ebay.