1981 GS750E (GSX750E) Dented Cafe Racer ( Currently doing GSX-R USD conversion)

wozza said:

Yeah..

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Do you remember where, in case you found a very good offer

just the Oz website....https://au.helperformance.com/moto
An off the rack one with the red ends ....

CrabsAndCylinders said:

Some people don't recommend soldering connections on bikes because the connection will not flex and some wires, such as where they pass around the forks, need to flex. If you do this on a section where there is no wire movement then I think it should be ok.

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I was under the impression that a couple of layers with heatshrink would remedy this, but I looked it up and ther are different opinions on this. Thanks for pointng it out. I'll keep the soldering to a minimum. Thankfully I've used weatherpak connectors in most of the joints:

2019-08-02_10-17-21 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

I tend to always apply a small dab of solder to connectors after crimping...especially things like bullet connectors ....basically anything that the wire is pulled on to disco.....

Dug out the brake lines I bought for the bike last year and never got around to fit. The top one is a lot shorter than the one I have on the bike now, which means I don't need to buy a new one. These are made in the UK, and have good review from mid level racers. Probably works great for me. They are priced just below HEL, and I guess they struggled to make money off them because now they sel HEL on their site instead.

2019-09-06_04-05-28 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

Accossato PRS2 radial master with matching clutch lever. Blue ATE brake fluid matched the blue stripes on the tank and seat nicely

2019-09-06_04-03-38 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


IMG_20170407_115832 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

Very temporary varning light panel Will use this until the new top triple is finished.

2019-09-06_04-03-15 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

Was going to ride the bike home this weekend, but things didn't go well.. Neither of the petcocks I bought off of eBay worked. The short one was leaking at the riveted plate in the front. The longer one didn't leak but it didn't flow well enough to keep the right fuel level in the carbs either, and the bike wasn't really rideable. It really was a big dissapointment, because all the lights and all electronics except the magnetic pickup for the speedo now works. The bike ran well with the small plastic gas tank and all seemed well.. but the last trip of the season was a total of 15 yards
But lasted long enough for my brother to take a picture:
2019-09-18_10-45-33 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

The project is now extended for another winter, and I've ordered a few new parts. I've ordered an Italian made petcock and a magnetic bolt for the rear brakedisc. The bolt will be used for the magnetic pickup for the speedo. I've had plans earlier to integrate this into the speedo gear at the front axle. The plan now is to place it at the rear wheel and route the cable in a nylon sleeve together with the rear brakeline. The frequency of updates will be lower for a while as I need to focus on my masters thesis the next couple of months.

On the positive side; the m-unit blue and Motoscope mini is awesome!
https://youtu.be/-dY4CpQ8kBg

The old master pump was both leaking and looking pretty worn out. Was contemeplating a rebuild kit, but decided on a new master in stead. Didnt cost too much and looks nice i think

IMG_20190920_175251 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr.

Didn't really have the spare time, but wanted a solution for the leaking petcock. I ordered a better quality petcock, made in Italy. Although the quality was awesome, it didn't look like it would flow nearly enough for 4 carbs. Inside the tall screen there is at thin plastic tube with an ID of roughly 2,5mm. As the float valves are 2mm each, I recon the ID of the petcock tube shuld be at least 4mm for it to not become the bottleneck. Looks nice though, and when I took it apart it seemed very well made. It also has springloaded stop-points, so it clicks nicely into the different positions. I guess it is a replacement petcock for a 50cc Tempo Panther or something.

IMG_20190924_182442 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

I did some googling though, and some people with badly tuned or defective 50cc engines did experience around 23mpg. This indicates that even this small petcock would flow enough for the GS. I might try to hook it up and measure the flow per minute or something

I also took apart the china-petcock, and there's no mystery why it doesn't hold tight. Adding to that, it had become almost impossible to switch between positions because of the expanded rubber. Note that there's no O-ring or even slot for O-ring on the base plate for the "handle".

IMG_20190924_184413 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

As the season came to an end without me getting the bike on the road, I now have a few months to sort out the problems. First off I decided to make some new parts (again). Here's a teaser for what's to come, a rendering of the first part of a new device:

Petcock v5_2 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

Honda petcock has no o-ring for the handle, either. Just a nylon washer for the wave washer to run on. I just rebuilt the original on my '79 GL1000 with an All Balls kit. Drilled off the rivets, drilled holes for screws, cleaned it well inside, put in new seal, lubed it with a little silicone grease, installed new wave washer and nylon washer on the operator, put on the top plate and screwed it down with the self-tapping 4-40 screws. Silicone on the new sealing rings (this petcock seals to a flat flange on the tank with two holes for the normal/reserve tubes), and screw it back on.

pidjones said:

Honda petcock has no o-ring for the handle, either. Just a nylon washer for the wave washer to run on. I just rebuilt the original on my '79 GL1000 with an All Balls kit. Drilled off the rivets, drilled holes for screws, cleaned it well inside, put in new seal, lubed it with a little silicone grease, installed new wave washer and nylon washer on the operator, put on the top plate and screwed it down with the self-tapping 4-40 screws. Silicone on the new sealing rings (this petcock seals to a flat flange on the tank with two holes for the normal/reserve tubes), and screw it back on.

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My tank came without a petcock, and the repro petcocks wasn't very good. Also they were a very tight fit between the tank and the carbs. It's always cool to make your own stuff, so I'll go this route. If everything was original, I'd agree your route is by far the best

So.. work has taken a lot of time the last few months, but I'm back Still working on the design for the petcock, but I've also come up with a solution for the pickup for the digital speedometer. I'm using the original gear on the front axle and the original wire. I've then cut the coupling and bearing out of a broken speedo and made a new house for it with a small disc inside. The disc has a hole for the magnet and the lid has a hole for the magnetic pickup. What do you think?

Speedogear_final by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

Here are the two parts I printed today. I haven't sanded the edges or removed the tape or anything. Just wanted to see if it fits, and I'm impressed with the opportunities a 3d-printer brings to the table:

IMG_20200301_181733 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

IMG_20200301_181846 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

So you're going to drive that with the cable from the wheel and send the signal to an aftermarket speedo?

And 3D printing is fun, I've yet to make bike parts but My son and I have printed a lot of stuff.

Maritime said:

So you're going to drive that with the cable from the wheel and send the signal to an aftermarket speedo?

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Yes, I have a Motogadget Mini embedded in the headlight

Nice. I'm only guessing but it looks like you'll mount that little piece on the bars maybe? or is it lager than it looks and will go around a fork leg?