Recent content by LKS

By the way, I'm also working on the last piece for the rear-sets:

Well.. Today I'm both happy and annoyed with my self. Last summer I spent hour after hour trying to get the petcock to flow enough gas to make the bike pull at higher RPMs. I overhauled the carbs, changed fuel-filter and more. I was convinced that the only thing I had changed from when the bike...

This is the mess I stitched together last summer to get the bike rideable.. Hurts my eyes to look at it This is the new electronics box with the M-unit Blue and ignition module. I also integrated a copper ground terminal. I'l draw some sketches to see how to best route the rest of the...

And for those of you that thinks this has become a 3D-printing thread, I'll soon be doing the linkage for the gearshifter and the front brakes. In that regard, I have a question about steel reinforced braided hoses. The set I ordered earlier are for the original fork. Those are too long for...

As I'm redoing parts of the electrical system, I will also replace this: with this: It takes 15 hours to print, so I hope the measurements are right ;)

Another 3D-printed part finished (I seem to need more of the all the time ;) ). This one is a bracket for making the rear light level when mounted on a surface that sits at a 45 degree angle:

And I made one for the gear-indicator: I think that's the last part I need to print for a while. There's some wiring left and connecting the front brakes, and then the front conversion is done. Then the bike will be rideable again Still need to make a proper mount for the registration...

I made a housing for the Motogadget Mini. I'll glue this into the triple so I won't have to glue the Mini directly. 3D printing doesn't give a perfect surface. When the CNC-router is finished, I'll probably go back and recreate these parts in aluminum. Meanwhile it's a cheap and easy way to...

The front is slowly coming together again. I'm not using Weather Pack connectors here as it's much easier to put the clip-ons together if the connectors fit through the clamps and the connectors will be located up under the tank so waterproofing isn't as important. I think the result looks...

The last couple of days I've been testing a few designs for the control-housings. I pretty confident they are in their final iteration now. Today I designed and printed the headlight brackets. They're attached to the fork-legs by stainless exhaustclamps.

Started to do the wiring for the controls. I'm drilling a hole in the clip-on tubes for the wires (from inside the controls) and I'm running the wires inside nylon sleeves for protection and looks. I wont bother with Weather Pack connections as the connections will be inside the headlight. I've...

That's smart :) The arm on the GS is already pretty long and I have a new lever. I don't know how hard the clutch should be to pull, but it's so hard that i have problems twisting the actuator arm by hand, and I'm average strength (I guess). I've heard the clutch basket can get grooves that...

Not much happening.. but I got some stuff in the mail; A HEL brake line for the rear (they were on sale for some models) and an original (I hope, it says "made in Japan" on the sleeve) clutch cable. The clutch is extremely hard to pull, and I don't want to search for other faults before I've...

That's what I hoped for :) I'm not sure how well the Koni shocks perform. They're Koni 7610 with five way rebound adjustments (now sold as Ikon 7610) that I god for free because they needed a rebuild. If they're too bad, I'll rather buy some longer shocks and shave a little off on rake and trail...

Great! When I planned the fork-swap, I was afraid of getting too much trail and a slow turning bike. But this might ok then?