Recent content by teazer

When you install that VAPE, check that the stator coils are inside the rotor. I just finished fitting one and the coils were too "low". Finally got a suitable spacer from the main US importer Dan at Re-Mx. Great service from him.

Yes. That's all that is needed.

That's a little crusty but no worse than some we dragged home. I probably have sets of re-plated spokes, brake shoes, and some motor parts if/when you need them.

Is Norman Hyde still around? He used to drag race a T150 Trident years ago. Nice looking chunky gear lever. You can make the levers in house as long as you can weld, but the pivot and pegs I have to buy, but like you I like the old school look.

You have too much cam for a fairly stock motor. We had a touch over 10:1 compression with flowed head and mild street cam and made 20-21 at the rear wheel with PW26 carbs from a CB77 and stock bore pistons. Those carbs are typical oval (figure 8) bore Keihin carbs and it comes out of corners...

Call the guys at AF1 racing in Austin and ask who does their head work. The head has to be heated and drive the old guide out. Then a new guide has to be fitted. It may or may not need reaming to size, then all the valve seats and valves need to be cut.

You are not wrong.

Thanks. I have to keep pushing myself to try new things and develop new skills. Keeps me thinking I'm still young - Until I try to get out of bed that is...:confused::eek::D:D

Keep your colors simple and try to avoid mixing colors. For example, do teh headers and megaphones all in a satin black. Forget wrapping pipes. That's so 1999 and it causes the pipes to rust. Use BBQ paint. It's cheap, the right gloss level (low) and it's easy to re-spray if/when it gets...

Side covers are a great idea, but if you don't like them, the battery can be hidden under the seat hump and starter solenoid under the tank or between the frame rails below the seat.. You could also trim the lower edge of the seat to raise it in line with the tank if that makes the side covers...

That is a pretty wild cam. Yes, use the stock timing mark at TDC when both valves should be equally open. That cam has 105 degree lobe centers on both lobes, so it's symmetrical. Ignore the stated timing events. If you plot actual lift at the valve every couple of degrees you will find that...

Where is the LIKE button. That clutch is sexier than the one I fitted to the Duc.

Now that sounds like a plan. One of these days, I will have to start listening to my own advice. Fortunately I haven't touched NOS ....yet. ;);)

You might want to build the motor and then turn it over and see how much valve to piston clearance you have. You can either use modeling clay on the valve cut outs and measure it after, or slowly turn the motor over as it gets close to TDC and lever down on the valves to see how much clearance...

I would try the cam you have and see how it likes it. When I built my first CB77 racer, I tried every cam in the catalog and eventually had a special cam ground that really works. I am a big fan of trying things to see what works and then I want to understand why it works. But we are all built...