Cb360 Reassembly Help

Something you said yesterday has me confused: When I start the bike and i can put it in gear, its like the clutch isn't actuating at all. If you can put the bike in gear while running the clutch must be disengaged. Another question, does the kick starter turn the motor? If not the problem is in the clutch.
 
Yep, I can kickstart and electric start the bike.

And sorry... I didn't use the proper word there. When I say isnt actuating I mean the push rod is not pushing forward making the clutch come together.
As in, if I put it in gear when on the ground it with the clutch lever pulled it would leap forward and die.
 
Just wanted to say thank you for all the help I received on this motorcycle from everyone. I hope that anyone who reads through the thread can learn from my mistakes. I sold it this past weekend for not nearly what I had into ($1,000.. do you guys think that is a fair price?) it but that is the name of the game with motorcycles lol. This is the final picture of it, for anyone who cares. Engine rebuilt twice, frame repainted twice. And hopefully everything put back together much better for the next owner to enjoy! Now I need a chopper.
 

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I assume you sorted the clutch. What was the problem/cure?
Yes. I told him everything that was wrong and showed him how it ran and how the clutch wasn't working. We made a deal. Gave him a fsm, with all the other parts I have accumulated over time. I felt bad about it initially , but he told me he really felt like it was a fair deal. I just don't like the feeling of not giving someone a good deal since I hate being ripped off.
 
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Did you have the single ball bearing installed? They go missing pretty easily.

Item # 21...

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Good, let your buddy know the cb360 clutches can be tricky. Needs to follow the manuals adj procedure step by step. Or the clutch discs are just stuck together. Ive never had em stick together on my 360 but they have a couple times over the years on my CL100. They pop free after working the lever and rocking the bike a bit. I use Rotalla oil in all my bikes.
 
Trek, I am going to try and walk through this in my head so forgive me if I say something wrong lol.

The clutch discs sticking together could certainly be a possibility as I didn't ride the bike for probably around 10 months, then I rebuilt it, and then sold it.
When its running, I can put the bike in gear and the wheel takes off. When I pull the clutch lever, it does not engage the clutch (meaning the wheel wont stop turning and when on the ground it would leap and die).
But.. if the discs are stuck together, wouldn't it mean that the clutch is constantly engaged which means the wheel wouldn't turn at all?
 
Just asked the guy if he tried to check the clutch discs and he said he removed the cover and separated them himself and they were not stuck.
 
Stuck clutch discs act as though your not pulling the clutch and just putting it into gear. So, yes the wheel will want to spin full time once its put into first gear. So it will leap and die.
You're buddy will need to turn the adjuster ( #6 in the pic above) on the left cover. Its been years, so I can't recall if it needs to turn "in or out" BUT im thinking it seems backwards...so turning it "Left" for more throw??? But the Honda manual explains it all pretty clearly. It all has to be pretty precise, because the amount of spin can also interfere w the 3 ball bearings "thing". Snapping past the "Locking ring". and into the next 3 divots. Which defeats the purpose.
HAHAHA, I know it sounds like Im making all this up. Im not. I just dont recall the exact names of all the parts. sorry.
Tell your buddy "good luck".
With this clutch its a fine line to have enough motion to fully open the clutch discs...without so much as to let the clutch slip when closed...all the while not letting it open too much. It can be tricky.
So, use the adjuster #6 to adjust rod "pick". So it doesn't let it "Slip" when clutch is compressed as lever is released. Then if it "snaps" because its got too much throw. Use the cable adjustor to add a bit of slack so that it doesn't pick far enough to let it "Snap". Ensure there is a couple mm of free play in the lever when its released.
CLEAR AS MUD....in 97 simple steps.
 
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Another little point if I may, adjust the cable first so that it is fully slack and then adjust the motor side and then go back and take out excess cable free play. It is almost impossible to adjust the motor side (#6) if there's not enough free play in the cable when you adjust that throwout.
 
Another little point if I may, adjust the cable first so that it is fully slack and then adjust the motor side and then go back and take out excess cable free play. It is almost impossible to adjust the motor side (#6) if there's not enough free play in the cable when you adjust that throwout.
Absolutely. Its been too many years for me. Without actually sitting down w manual and bike and doing it. Thanks my man.
 
You 'unscrew' the adjuster in chain cover to bring it closer to clutch push-rod then adjust cable.
Part #127 (or #7) moves away from cover moving the entire operating mechanism.
on 360, you can do the cable adjustment before fitting cover to bike . There is a cast 'pointer' inside cover that lines up with the cable operating arm when cable is properly adjusted. You then just unscrew bolt #6 until it contacts clutch push rod.
It's a factory assembly thing and not in any manual.
If cover is fitted and you don't want to pull it, do it with cable slacked off and adjust cable last.
 
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