We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
Got the other fork rebuilt using the same process. All was good, except the powder coater had put a screw of indeterminate thread into the drain hole to mask it. The screw wasn't the right size, so they used masking tape the thicken it up, and then during the heating stage it melted to a gooey...
No news on the swingarm yet but I have been busy on the front end.
I got the fork yokes powder coated and reassembled the forks as described earlier:
I also painted the Betor handlebar mounts
and mounted the handlebars onto the top yoke like so:
There's not much room to access the first...
OK, here is the well-engineered-but-still-redneck steering lock:
An M8 bolt, some tubing, washers and a Nylon nut. Does the job I guess:
In other news I gave the swingarm to a local shop to press the two bushings in. Job done:
But, I cannot push the swing arm bolt all the way through. It...
I need some advice on the steering lock though. This is how it was implemented when I got the bike:
It's just a screw going up through the bottom yoke:
(I need a longer one) then some hose is placed over the threads:
That's it! Any suggestions for a better method?
OK, so today I got the steering stem back on:
The forks are by Betor, a Spanish brand that was considered quite the upgrade back in the day. Start with the bottom yoke, dust seal and bottom bearing:
Add ball bearings and grease:
Add ball bearings and grease to the top bearing:
I'm rebuilding an old BSA650L (see my thread here) but wanted to ask a question specific to tightening up the headstock.
The forks and headstock are not original, but were swapped for Betor units. The bearing assembly is one of those ball-bearings-in-grease affairs, and the whole think is...