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https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mcy/d/waukesha-1979-yamaha-xs750-special/6933760201.html

Insulated the rear LEDs.

Getting rid of the factory snake’s nest of bussman fuses.

Let the battery trickle for a day and tried one last time. 8) Only getting 12VAC at the whites with a little revving but the battery is clearly charging, drops down almost a volt at idle when removing the black signal wire. Thanks for your patience, the stator may be going but we know the R/R...

Key on, engine off with all connections as diagrammed.

White R/R wire to Brown Field coil typically has .2VDC under direct battery voltage when through the meter to battery or chassis ground.

Charged the battery up to 13 volts, key on shows .125VDC between green through the coil and chassis ground. The green/brown field coil field wire to ground is showing 1.2-1.4MOhms

No continuity from any of the 3 from the coil plug to ground but I'll verify this evening as things are beginning to blur together.

Put a 20 amp fuse in, 12.5 battery voltage and 12.2VDC through signal wire and white wire hooked to brown field coil. Loose Green wire R/R connected to green field coil now shows .06VDC.

So we have battery voltage on the white wire through the R/R following your wiring diagram. Pulling the power from black signal removes 12V from white. Going to brown on the field coil with the white wire and green/green creates a spark that blows my signal 12VDC fuse. Between green and brown...

I have probably tested them all through troubleshooting, but for the sake of getting the electromag/field coil functioning I'm eliminating the harness by going direct from battery/ground into the R/R and through the stator/coil without any success. I'm one step away from replacing the stator...

That loose green has direct continuity to chassis ground, that can’t be right from your diagram. In fact I just checked every terminal on the entire R/R and they all have some sort of continuity through each other.

No sir, if black is disconnected no voltage in either white/green loose with plug red +12V/green ground and verified <.1 resistance. Battery is 12.5~13.0 static.

Both were static battery voltage.

Do you want the plug green chassis grounded or to negative battery? Also, verified there was voltage through loose green and white wires to the stator last night. Going to voltage with the black wire makes every wire powered except the white ones I want and green plug negative.

No luck tonight with power to black R/R wire. Mind bottling really, between whites will go from .1VAC to .5VAC with a little revving.

I’m under the impression the entire unit is grounded through the battery negative green and flowing positive (charged) voltage through red after being rectified.

Do some time studies where you'd need to bail off the bike to save your life in both positions and let us know what you come up with. Falling on your side is not a proper bail FYI, think of it as a ghost ride where you continue running or at least use arms to prevent yourself from eating too...

There is hope the coil is still functional! Thanks for clearing that up. Although I may need to go direct to chassis ground on the blk field coil plug based on the manual diagram.

So the loose black is the signal switch, hopefully that is literally the key to the loop otherwise a new stator is next. Shouldn’t matter unless the R/R is internally switched as I’m going direct to battery positive and negative. I did not have magnetism with key on through cover, however it...