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Son, is this all I need here? Has a built in resistor too http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CMO3V0S?cache=d066776e5d1ae7b61630b98643d84e78#ref=mp_s_a_1_1&qid=1393002415&sr=8-1

I was thinking along the lines of the lower wattage bulbs, but I'm new to this electronics game. As for the electronic flasher relay...not familiar with that. I will need to play on google. Any suggestions on a supplier? Thanks a bunch guys.

The only LEDs are the 4 idiot lights I replaced. The turn signals are aftermarket bulbs and the tail light will be replaced with 2 dual element bulbs instead of 1.

Update: I grabbed the relay from my dad's bike. Same relay. They still don't flash. I read that if there isn't enough resistance across the relay, it won't work. Is there a chance that the 4 LED idiot lights are the cause?

Hey guys, I'm back. I have the piece built as we discussed and connected. Blinkers are all connected now too (well...dangling, not mounted...). When I touch the orange (or blue) wire to the grey wire, the idiot light and the corresponding blinker light turns on...but it stays on, i.e. it...

This sounds pretty cool. I would like to see where you are going with it. My buddies and I are currently building 3 nearly identical "karts". They will be powered with a Honda D16 and, one day, will be turbo charged. We are looking for 200-250 HP at about 1200#. Spindles/hub/knuckles are off of...

Will do

I figured you may have meant 500-Four, but I didn't want that argument starting on this thread. Thanks for the warning. I just got done doing all of that...guess I will do it again. Good news is that the bike does still start up instantly. I hope that is a sign of good things and a lucky mishap.

By leaving the ignition on? It's a 1971 cb500...no f model here. That would suck hard bc my coils are new.

Thanks for the info.

I did get a BTJ due to what people said on DTT and SOHC4 and I do use it, but this was an overnight accident. On the battery tender jr note, do I just plug it in and leave it or do I just plug it in every few days?

Oh, and an electronics tray will fit perfectly behind that mounting plate and the middle bar with about 2" of space under the seat.

Here is what I went with. I drew up this plate in Solid works and my buddy tossed it on his CNC Plasma table and welded it in for me. The 1" square tube is support for your butt, but not secured yet. I am going to use threaded rubber inserts into the bottom of the seat. And the original rear...

Thanks.

Which way do I solder it? Reminder, I am going from the LED idiot light positive to the two positive blinker wires.

I knew that was coming. I didn't feel like signing back in. Battery came back to life btw!

I have had it on the 2A for about an hour off and on and it is at about 11.8V now. I will swap it over to the trickle charger (0.75v) for the rest of the night and check it before work. So glad it came back. My led acid one didn't.

Dang. Is it still chargable being THAT dead or do I need a new battery...again?

Quick question potentially (no pun intended). I have a new AGM battery. Strong charge from the store and held nicely at 12V+ for a few weeks without running the bike. I finally got my new petcock in and hooked the tank back up and ran the bike. It was beautiful!! That new battery started...

I'm not sure if I mentioned that or not, but it is the extractor stuck in the 1st hole. I will attempt the dremel method first. Hopefully there is enough bite left with that cracked section. I forgot about this method. I may try this for the second bolt. There is not a lot of room here...