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Good stuff! I remember the infamous "7-11" setups back in the day (for those that don't know, it was putting a GSXR 1100 plant in the GSXR 750 frame), I don't recall exactly what you gained, I think a shorter wheelbase and maybe 10-15 pounds????????

I think you will be fine, steel is the most forgiving when it comes to doing this kind of stuff, the original GSXR frames were aluminum and not very stiff by today's standards. Where you are going to probably suffer will be the swingarm and the swingarm to frame interface, the GSXR was beefed...

Even though I have media blasting equipment, I refrained from using it on the cases. Way too many nooks and crannies, even with the most careful masking/plugging you will always get some errant beads. I degreased the cases, then hit them with paint stripper, then degreased again about 5 times...

This is my mill at this point- Completely cleaned and prepped, then shot with Eastwood High Heat Engine Paint (Ceramic). It has that WW2 aircraft color.

This is now totally rediculous, will not respond to e-mails or calls whatsoever. Once this jerk has your money, it is too bad for you evidently. Do not order from Old Bike Barn- I gave this business a second chance, and paid the price. I will have to just eat $164.00 and order from another...

Thanks for the tip above- I can't say I wasn't warned, but now I know for a fact!

Man, this is like pulling teeth!

Just got my handmade Roccitycafe.com front fender in- I ordered a 19" radius aluminum fender, and I planned to use my stock fender mounting bracket. Opened the box, it was well wrapped with bubblewrap, and when I pulled it out, it looked good! It is polished to a high even shine, and was...

Back from the work "trip", and back on the P38. Got the gauge housings done, will get some pics when they come back from anodization-

Thanks- My next hurdle is the gauge setup, I was going to just run a tach, but the trip counter is nice for a roadgoing machine (fill ups) but the stock gauges are pretty large. I am trying to design a system to retain the stock gauges, but not look too big or bulky.

Re: Yet another CB360 ( or two?) That's a good looking clip-on! Definitely old style, and matches the bikes from the 70's

Doing the headlight assembly right now. The clip-ons are still at mockup length, and will be trimmed etc. I am running a new clutch and brake assembly, it is NOS from a Triumph.

I have made front/rear spoked hubs before (non cush rear) using the lathe and mill- Spokes come last, I would suggest that you design the hubs without "dish" (to include the rear) and merely drill the spoke holes with a common/known flange diameter. You could even make canted flanges, but non...

Re: Project Gretta: The evolution of a confused '74 360 Nowadays- Brakelight indicator from front brake activation is smart, really smart. Neutral light- you can always turn the bike off with the clutch in, then check for neutral when she cools on restart (easier on the old Hondas) by...

If you run parallel, then spacing isn't an issue- the steerer was turned from stainless stock and instead of pressing, I threaded the lower clamp and then made a second nut for a bombproof install- I used to do a lot of press fit steerers (no more than .002"- usually .0007") but just went...

Just a parallel setup, no angles on this build. You can change the rake by boring the tube allocations on the trees at a different angle, but the triple clamp "span" must be exactly accounted for, and CANNOT be changed. When I alter rake, I have to ensure that my distances are perfect so that...

I will take some pics of a mockup jig, but from your posts, I am sure you will get this. Calculate the width of the clamp (in this case 1.4") and using geometry determine the centerline of the bars at the desired angle. You will have a "thinner" wall at one side and this is what you shoot for...

Here are the clip-ons (not polished yet!) and I machined them at 5 degrees, I usually machine them at 7-9, but 5 degrees is easier on the wrists for road trips IMO. The stock brake lever/master cylinder assembly is way too long for the way I want to build the bike though, the bars would have to...

Hopefully nothing major, but these kinds of things are usually not any where close to what is originally thought to be the issue. As long as the massive rotating bits (pistons/rods/crank) is fine, you should be ok. It seems that 9 times out of 10 (on Japanese stuff) that problems come from a...

This is what I learned from decades of "PO's"....... What they say or claim is irrelevant. You have just purchased a mechanical beast, and determining faults/fixes is now up to you. Of course, some PO input is required, but by the sound of this "ping and oil on my 501's" you need to start...