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Good luck on the title. When I lived in Ohio it was nearly impossible even when you took a copy of the regulations in with you.

He started 20 years ago when we lived in Dallas, TX. He started painting the figures and won a couple of contests. Here in Atlanta he has sold figures at Dragon Con and done a couple of special orders. He has sold some for $1000 each, mostly to Japanese collectors. I honestly never thought it...

My middle kid paints highly detailed WarHammer figures. This is one of the airbrush kits he uses. It's a cheap buy in from Amazon...

Looks very nice! Great flow!

I painted a bicycle in Rustoleum Satin Ink Blue for a neighbor kid. It turned out very well. I used the 2K satin clear to seal it. It's dark but really catches the eye.

That turned out really nice.

I have been told Prismatic makes a powder called "Tin Cup" which is very close to an original factory finish on fork lowers. I've seen pictures but never seen a finished part.

Powdercoat or paint the lowers if they are too rough to polish. Anodizing it not a good finish for lowers as they get chipped and scratch from daily activities. Doc is right about cast parts. I forgot to mention the probability of mottling, glad he thought of it.

Well done!

I have Duros on my Honda CL72 and I had them on my Evo chopper. They were as good as anything else I had on other bikes.

I worked in an elctro plating shop when I was younger. The anodizing process is basically controlled rusting. There are three levels of anodizing. The first two are cosmetic and the last one is protective. Type I is very thin and mostly seen on cheap aluminum furniture and fixtures. It is...

I've seen it done on enduro bikes.

I'll second!

Those are neat carts. We had one at an amusement park in the 70s. The forward/reverse cycle was unique at that time. Southeast Harley in Bedford Heights, Ohio sold carts and I'm pretty sure they sold more carts than bikes. They still have a "Golf Car" company listed next door. You might be...

Looks like you have a great helper! Keep her interested, my daughter in law knows more about bikes than my son!

Welcome! NIce job on those bikes!

Both. A poor mount design that relies on the bolt integrity. Some of the SL/XL bikes had a peg extending from the frame which fit into the peg mount and only used one bolt. Other's had two bolts and didn't use the peg mounting system. Neither of these methods were meant to hold a large...

LowBrow and a few more sell spacer kits for Harleys. I mostly use different sizes of PVC pipe and then send the measurements to my machinist. I also have a box full of various sized spacers from old junk bikes, so I very seldom need to have one made.

Looks great!

Great fix!!! The footpeg mounts are known weak spots on the XLs. The local Honda dealer built an XL350 into a pretty decent unlimited MX racer. While racing he made a hard landing and both pegs broke. He landed crotch first on the tank. I immediately modified my XL250 peg mounts.