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I've finally achieved the level of awesomeness to take on a project like this. 1. I have quite the beard. It's even streaked with a touch of grey 2. I almost moved to Seattle, almost, wasn't quite ready for that step 3. I have acquired a lot more plaid shirts, some are even vintage 4...

Don't have much pic wise other than a nasty Katana and an old frame.

The whole front suspension/brakes/wheels is a bolt on deal. I'll go from 1 caliper to two 4 piston calipers and 285mm rotors. From non adjustable front shocks, to 3 setting rebound adjustable shocks. Add one foreward gear. Loose the shaft drive and gain a chain. More HP. From 73 to 86 and a...

Bike's been up and running well since I've updated this thread. I went ahead and started on V 2.0. What is version 2.0? Good question. I found and identical frame for mocking up the changes for the good price of free dollars and ninety-nine cents or five dollars and fifty-free cents, I can't...

After 80-81 suzuki went to CV carbs, they don't have adjustable needles. What size are your jets now? I might have some laying around you can use that might get you close

Are by chance going to have a spare air box lid floating around, or are you going to eventually put 2 bikes together?

Running the filters like that sucks.. It chokes the bike and kills power, a lot. It seems like these bikes don't like to be jetted richer when they get modified. Symptoms of running rich: RPMs get stuck, like hitting a rev limiter, stops abruptly. Symptoms of running lean: RPMs will climb but...

I have the same bike. Without a lot of reinforcement it isn't going to work like it is pictured.

New boots and lube made it much much easier

If the fork seals aren't leaking, don't replace them. Just replace the oil. GL series use 15wt oil, 239ml. You can go heavier on the oil and shim the springs.

I found some bars in a junk yard and rerouted the stock cables. And the stock cables are long as hell with the goofy factory bars. Do the clip on bars clear the tank?

Once you figure in all the odds and ends, tires, registration, tag, spray paint, electrical connectors, etc. figure about a grand. At first I was going to bob or cafe mine, but, most of it was there, and most of it worked, so I couldn't see tossing something just to buy something to replace it...

If you go slow, you can reuse the float bowl gaskets. You probably don't need to rebuild the petcock, but it probably needs to be disassembled and cleaned. You can boil it on the stove.

You are starting with a better canvas than I did

The boots are a rubber tube bonded to an aluminum flange. The bond fails, the rubber gets brittle, etc. the bike will run and possibly idle even with split boots. Once the carbs are off, pull the boots and inspect them. Squish them nice and hard, if they are done, they'll start to seperate, or...

Count on at least 1 if not all the exhaust bolts breaking. The bikes were rated at 73 hp from the factory. You're not going to gain much more than looks losing the factory air box and exhaust.

If you have any questions, just ask.

I just finished mine.

If the carb mounts/boots haven't been replaced, do it. It sounds like the high idle and won't stay running issue, are 33 year old carbs boot issues. The cleanest and most perfectly rebuilt carbs won't work without good boots. I got mine for $117 shipped from Z1. Your 2 left pipes are blued...

Curious to see if it'll pick up variances between jets. Testing the jets out of the carbs. But, I'm pretty sure the vacuum cleaner won't pull enough. Not for flow but consistency. If it will, you can put the richer jets in the middle cylinders (to keep them cooler).