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Back at it again. I'm completing my residency here in Rochester NY and bringing the bike with me to California. I've got quite a bit more work left to do, but I'll give a little update: The List: Suspension: replacing the rear linkage with adjustable rod bearings so I can fine tune the height a...

well, i've been hard at work. I sold my VTR1000F and have been dumping all my time into wrenching. Carbs still having leaks but now from cyl 3 and only when it gets hot (goes through overflow) and that may explain why cyl 3 and 4 are running a little richer (dumping into 3 and overflow some into...

alright! It's been a long winter/year. I haven't been in the shop as doclife has taken over a lot and I've also been trying to get back in physical shape. I gained WAY too much weight last year and none of my clothes fit! I'm back down to fighting weight, so time to dig into this thing again...

Well, the DGR 2018 came and went. The bike ran great, but it's time to take it apart again and do some powdercoating, detab the frame, and maybe swap to a rounded tank from the KZ550 LTD? it's been a fun year, but winter is when the real fun happens and the bike will be undergoing even more...

and it runs. It's not done, but I took it for a ride. The idle needs tuning. I'm pretty certain it's running rich as heck since I've got pods and stock exhaust. I've got a MOTAD exhaust coming in the mail at some point, I ditched the MAC...

Sam, if you PM me I can give you my contact we can diagnose the carb together. Always down to help get another GPZ rolling with what I know. I’ve had carbs apart a billion times now and made every mistake. I’d like to prevent you making the same ones. I’m in NY upstate/western where are you?

YO! thought i'd chime in. just saw this. you may have to relocate the ignition coils, or bang out the tunnel a bit to make it fit around the brackets. no big deal. The tank from the 81 will have more room. The 81 tank is also shorter, but the tank strap piece actually goes right where the little...

I went manual on mine and don't regret it. simplicity is good and it works much better than the vacuum unit. There's cheap stock replacements or the pretty pingel ones. I used a cheap stock replacement style and it works fine and the bike runs.

okay...new video of what I've been up to: 1. I built a new battery box I had to work around the fact that the tire was going to hit the seat pan if I wanted to use the full travel of my fancy shock (I'm tracking this thing, so yes I want to use the full travel)...

Sam, those are the carb float bowl drains. these are what you would drain before storing the biek for winter so the gas doesn't turn to varnish over the whole winter. there are carb overflow vents that are the plastic T's in between each carb body.

So my next question: BROKEN M LOCK I just need a new fob but I can't get ahold of revival cycles. I'm considering switching to a low tech key ignition. Anyone know a good one? Dime city cycles? It has to play nice with hte M UNIT. I also don't know how to wire up an M Unit can anyone help with...

UPDATE: been up to a LOT lately. My better half is out of town helping her mom move up here so I've been left to my own devices. I'm also working night shifts so when I can't sleep from swapping back to the occasional day shift in the emergency room, I just go to the shop and bang out some...

cool! Much more intricate paint work than I was going to do I dig the heck outta it tho! man that took a lot of skill to make it look that good!

is that piece as a structure for the seat hump? I'm trying to figure out how to give mine some structure right now.

did a video blog update for this most recent buildup plus a sort of explanation of everything done so far... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-pFZ85o6BpE

you need to have the Regulator/Rectifier in the open air or it will heat up and fry the ignition box. The ignition box needs less ventilation. The starter solenoid also should not get wet so you WANT that to be concealed or tucked. There's lots of power through there and sparking/arcing will fry...

now THAT is a clever solution. I'm building a plastic "top tunnel" (basically an upside down tunnel) with ABS plastic that the seat will sit on top of. This is COOL and METAL. I'm a shite welder (I have a friend do most of the important stuff with metal) but I'm pretty handy with heat forming...

Lots of work this week since I'm on vacation. Let's start with where we are so far: Rear frame was repaired after bad chop job and hooped with the metal hoop kit from DCC and welding from Interstellar motor's Rich Odlum (on his new TIG machine) seat pan fabbed out of steel tank cleaning effort...

You DO need a well functioning charging system. They need slightly more to charge than a lead acid. Most good condition charging systems put out enough though but if it's on the verge maybe not. Shorai has more about this on their site

id look into a shorai battery. I'm using one on my GPZ and so far so good!