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7. Wiring Extend the 3 leads from the pickup over the top of the hall sensors and then through the original wiring harness hole, then far enough to reach where the old points met the condenser & coils under the gas tank. Using black for power and blue and yellow for left and right will match the...

This where I'll add a bit of my experience. Grinding the back of the unit out is just to make a place for the bolt washer to tuck into to hold the ignition. I went slow and it wasn't too bad. After: I didn't want to grind into the side of the unit and so I decided to just make the screw...

4. At this point check you mechanical advance unit for stiff or worn “bob weights” and spring tension, if the springs are too loose or too tight address this now by modifying the springs. If at all in doubt strip, clean and lightly lubricate the unit (dry lube is best e.g graphite powder) or...

***DISCLAIMER**** Before proceeding with this install, PLEASE think this through, this is not for the timid and I can only offer my guidance as someone who did this a few years ago. I will not be held responsible for any errors or omissions herein! You should understand motorcycle ignition...

I'm going to revive this thread. @jays100 was looking for more info and it reminded me that I meant to post an update about this but forgot OK, so the info I got was from a dude named Rodrick Smith. He said that he got the info from another forum member (not sure which forum) username...

And just a few short months later... :p I spent some time tuning the carbs and it was just not running very great. I bought new mufflers (cheap emco things just to make it easier to work on without annoying the neighbors) and after watching a bunch of videos on tuning Mikunis (mikuni oz was the...

Update, my friend came over and we used his compression gauge to check my engine again. We got 150 in both right and left cylinders! The loaner gauge that I was using before had a universal end, and I thought I had it on tight, but I think I was just struggling to get it engaged well enough. So...

Hmmm... The rebuild was done a while back, completed in the Spring of 2019. When I originally picked up this bike, the cylinder head had a hole in it. A timing chain mount broke and the original owner rode it until the chain ate through the head from the inside. I replaced all the bent valves...

OK, I checked compression and I saw 140psi on the left cylinder and 90psi on the right. That seems like it could be a real problem. The left side is the one that has been running rich. I put a #30 pilot in and changed the main jets to 165. I started it and took it for a spin and there is still...

Yes, I meant 176. I'll hold off on the needle jet for now and see how the mains help.

@teazer your explanation of the different needle jet type makes a lot of sense. I found 179 P4 or P6, but I haven't been able to find the P5. I am going to order P4 in the spirit of erring on the lean side. I'm also getting 30 pilot jets and 165,155, and 150 mains. I'll have to call my buddy...

OK, I am completely in the dark about jet sizes. I pulled my needle jet and it does say 159 P5. The air jet says 2.0 I am having a helluva time reading these things. I have 50yr old eyeballs and the stamps are tiny!

@teazer Thanks for the knowledge. I pulled the carbs and measured the engine side I.D. at 32mm. So these are VM 32 carbs. The main jet reads 185 and the pilot is a 35. I think the needle says 6DH4, and both needles were in the middle slot. but I've moved them up one spot to help with the...

Another thing that kind of bums me out is that the manifold for the Mikunis uses an additional piece and three (!) hose clamps (or jubilee clamps) to hold everything in place. There must be a better way to mount these carbs to a CB 45o motor, right? This feels awfully hacky. Tell me I'm wrong.

I appreciate the feedback as much as I hate to hear it. Originally my plan with this bike was to make it a reliable daily ride, and with that goal I wanted to keep the stock airbox, update the electronics including putting electronic ignition on it, replacing the reg/rec and in general just...

After getting the bike to start and run, I could not get it to move without stalling. I was at the end of my abilities and decided to take it to a local shop. That was in October and after they struggled with it for a while it was determined that I needed to replace the carbs. They ordered up a...

Good thought, unfortunately the old seal is still stuck in the rusty old caliper. It was so bad that I just bought a new caliper. The piston is new too. I ended up ordering a new seal just to make sure I've got the right one. Should be here in a few days and we'll see how it compares.

Yes I did use DOT fluid on the seal, and after taking it off there was residual fluid on everything. The piston does slide freely in the caliper without the seal. I think I may just order a new seal and see if it’s any better.

Thanks for the idea. When I was bleeding the brake I could see that both holes in the MC were not plugged, is there another hole that you are referring to? I am pretty sure this is related to the amount of pressure needed to push the piston into the caliper though. I just pulled it off again...

I got the linkage sorted. I did need to shorten the rod a bit. Used a tube as a sleeve to brass braze it back together. Now I'm having an issue with my front brake. I bought a new caliper and have a new caliper piston and seal, the piston does not want to slide very easily in the caliper. I had...