Search results

I watched this project from the beginning and really wanted it to work out for him.

Perusing CL today and I run across this: https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/mcy/d/rochester-1986-honda-interceptor-500/6850407561.html Is it yours?

If you're set on those pod filters, get yourself some "Outerwears, Pre-Filters". Like the K&N Dry Chargers mentioned above. Used them religiously on my K&Ns for my TRX250R.

As hillsy has said, it's pretty common for a bike that has been unused for some time to have the clutch pack become a bit sticky. What I did with my bike was, put the front wheel up against a wall, start it, put it in gear, and then rev the motor while slowly letting the clutch out a few times...

Check into the CB175/200 caliper. It had a cable operated disc brake. Not sure of how the mounts will line up, but may be an option.

The clicking means that you are over rotating the mechanism. What cable are you using? OEM cable should just be an adjustment issue. Motion Pro cable, the outer sheath is too long. Removing one of the adjuster nuts, at the cover, I was able to get it to work.

Get in contact with crazypj on this board. Send your carbs to him. He will modify them and you will be able to run those filters and, more than likely, stock jetting also. I did this and am running uni filters on my cb350. No flat spots or suing at all.

Try putting more fuel in the tank. I've had the same issue.

This^^^^^^^. Totally agree.

There will be two pieces rolling around inside your engine. The screw and the locking nut.

Sounds like you got an early model top clamp wear the forks slide into but not through. You should be able to locate a top clamp from a later CL/CB 350/360.

I don't know much about the rd350lc, but what exhaust is on the bike? I had a two stroke trail bike from the early 70s and it really had no powerband either. I think the pipe plays a big role in how the power comes on. My TRX250R, quad had a big expansion chamber on it and you could definitely...

Is there pressure on the rockers from the cam lobes? Try turning the pins so you open the gap on the valves. Like already said, you may have to find a way to turn the camshaft. This is a pretty simple engine. You should be able to do a rebuild if necessary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You will want to pull the head and check valves and, at least, the tops of the pistons. I would remove the valves from the head, as well, and check runout on the stems. Disassembly will require you to remove the engine from the frame. There's not much room for engine work on the 350 frame.

The tensioner roller is worn, but I wouldn't think this would cause your issue. If the chain and sprocket are moving up and down, I suspect the cam sprocket bolts sheared and the sprocket is spinning on the camshaft. To verify: open a rocker inspection cap. You should be able to see the rocker...

The blue painters tape will be stuck to the inside of your glassed seat. You may want to put some wax or packaging tape or something over the blue tape that the resin won't stick to. It will be a pain to remove once the resin cures. Looking good.

Before you run it, I would check the condition of the cam chain tensioner rollers. If original, they are likely deteriorated. Pull the tensioner assembly off the back of the motor and look inside, or pull the top end apart.

What about a TRX250R radiator?

The bars are isolated by rubber bushings in the top triple clamp. My CB350 came with a short wire from the bar clamp to the triple. I'm not sure if this was a factory installed wire, but the bars need to be grounded somehow.

You may try getting in touch with Pete from Pamco for some test procedures. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk