1/2 Scale Cycle Kar(t)

sav0r

Member
Replace those steering yokes with a plate, then put a heim joint above and below your karting spindle. You can either run two bolts in single shear or one long bolt with a spacer between the spindle. That will let you get the camber in check down to half a turn on each heim. I'd imagine that running large tires that are also round means you are looking at some serious camber thrust if the front end is off even a smidgen. You're probably going to want to run some castor and decent scrub radius, because with the differential and the rack and pinion, the steering isn't going to self center very well. Also, to get the camber right the thing should be on the scales, with the cross weights minimized, then the cambers set, then the cross weight adjusted again, then cambers reset. It will be a process with that swing axle arrangement. It always is with my F-Vee. Once complete I bet it drivers rather well though.
 

Jimbonaut

Well-Known Member
DTT SUPPORTER
*Me* - finds lamp, rubs it.
*Genie* - you know the drill, three wishes mate.
*Me* - 1, Catherine Zeta Jones circa Entrapment era. 2, my wife being totally cool with that and 3, probably world peace yadda yadda yadda.

If I had a fourth it would be to be a kid in this class. Or being able to fly. A coin flip for sure.
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
Replace those steering yokes with a plate, then put a heim joint above and below your karting spindle. You can either run two bolts in single shear or one long bolt with a spacer between the spindle. That will let you get the camber in check down to half a turn on each heim. I'd imagine that running large tires that are also round means you are looking at some serious camber thrust if the front end is off even a smidgen. You're probably going to want to run some castor and decent scrub radius, because with the differential and the rack and pinion, the steering isn't going to self center very well. Also, to get the camber right the thing should be on the scales, with the cross weights minimized, then the cambers set, then the cross weight adjusted again, then cambers reset. It will be a process with that swing axle arrangement. It always is with my F-Vee. Once complete I bet it drivers rather well though.
I'm having a hard time visualizing this plan. I understand steering yokes to be the fittings that attach the rack and pinion to the steering wheel via the steering shaft. Are you talking about the arms on the spindle that the tie rod is attached to via the tie rod end? Or are we attaching a plate to the tie rod that has two helm joints (one above and one below the spindle)? My understand to how we would adjust camber would be to move the shock towers in or out to move the angle of the wheel.
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
I'm having a hard time visualizing this plan. I understand steering yokes to be the fittings that attach the rack and pinion to the steering wheel via the steering shaft. Are you talking about the arms on the spindle that the tie rod is attached to via the tie rod end? Or are we attaching a plate to the tie rod that has two helm joints (one above and one below the spindle)? My understand to how we would adjust camber would be to move the shock towers in or out to move the angle of the wheel.
I think I know what you mean. You mean the ends of the swing axles where the bolt runs through to mount the spindles. Correct? Cut the ends off, add a plate. Mount helm joints top and bottom, so the spindle rotates by a bolt through the helm joints, but the spindle/helm joint assembly is mounted by the threaded ends of the helm joints to a plate at the end of the swing arm. Is that making sense and do I understand that?
 

sav0r

Member
Yes, I think you go it.

Something like this, but instead of a spherical bearing at the bottom just use two heim joints. I assume they are using the swaged bearing on the lower in this photo, but it's probably way overkill.

 

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