1972/78 XS650 Heavy Metal Hardtail

That things going to kill you, one wreck and you're doused in gas!

Ah hell it's a chopper if it won't kill you it's not doing it's job :D
 
Also I'm assuming the brass cap up top is vented? Otherwise Hurco's right lol
 
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Also I'm assuming the brass cap up top is vented? Otherwise Hurco's right lol
It’s not a solid cap.
 
Starting to build out the electrical box. First step is swapping out the momentary switch for a battery cutoff toggle.

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Now fill the tank with whiskey and tune it to run on ethanol and you can use the fuel gauge as a straw....
 
As I start working on wiring, I had to figure why my alternator is wired opposite every drawing in my manual. The only thing I can figure is it’s re-wired or post-80.
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Of course, taking it apart I discovered one screw is galled all to hell. Took heat and penetrant, but I got it out when it unthreaded far enough to break the post.
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I ground the post down with a burr bit.
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Then installed a Timesert.
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Yes, it’s still stock charging. Hugh and pretty much everyone else is at least 4 weeks out on PMA kits. Hugh’s is basically a copy of a Banshee PMA, so I‘ll probably build my own. In the meantime, clean copper.
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Question Irk - is that clean copper on the face of the rotor? Does that help with charging? I've just reinstalled my rotor but didn't clean it at all - think I should?
 
Question Irk - is that clean copper on the face of the rotor? Does that help with charging? I've just reinstalled my rotor but didn't clean it at all - think I should?
If you read internet forums, people are all over the place about that. Many say you should never do anything. Many say you should. What I do know is that when rebuilding an electrical motor, it's part of the process to clean the copper on the commutator. I don't see this any differently.
 
I wired the electrical box with more circuits than I need (6) and run it through din plugs.
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