Life seems to get in the way of motorcycles sometimes. Here in East Tennessee, I took both the 1800 and '79 1000 for a brief ride. Happily, the '79 carbs kicked in perfectly once fuel finally got to them. I had run dry and drained them last fall.
Don't neglect testing for leaks before remounting the rack. I always use 91% isopropyl alcohol to reduce the smell, and be a bit safer, plus any not drained should mix with the gasoline and burn. If any of the "pucks" resist removal, a small hole drilled only half-way through will allow a wood screw to grip and remove it. The holes under the puck must be clear as well as all of the other tiny passages. Make sure you check Randakk's notes about incorrect jet size listing in the FSM, and backwards air jet positioning in Clymer. Setting the floats properly requires leaning the rack so that the tangs are just touching the valve pin. If you replace a float valve seat, make sure you to carefully remove the original filter screen and put it on the new valve seat. Also make sure the little pins work smoothly in the valves. They can sometimes be loosened with a soak in carb cleaner to dissolve built-up varnish.
There are so many points to address on GL1000 carbs, and there are four of them plus the air-cut valve. Don't get discouraged if they don't seem right the first time. You will get pretty good at removing and installing them, just like a CB750.