1976 Gold Wing Swamp Thing

That amazes me. I thought that one of the things that is a "must do regularly" on an older Wing is putting in timing belts. You'd think that if this poor beast has gotten a modicum of attention it would have been much easier to get that cover off. Too bad it was so frustrationg and time consiming but this old girl will be like new when you are done.
 
Timing belt cover was one thing (just the one seized bolt there), but the front transmission cover (that you need to remove to get to the water pump) was the real bitch. Later models switched out the phillips bolts to regular hex, but my '76 was not so fortunate. One of the bolt holes is open to the elements too at the back - water had obviously gotten into the hole and rusted the bolt in place which was the real pig to get out and was the bolt that ended up shearing.

One thing's for absolute certain, I won't be re-using the phillips bolts. Couldn't even if I wanted to - they're all borked. Have a set of stainless steel allen bolts (from the same company I bought replacement engine bolts for my CB build, AlloyBoltz) that'll be going in instead.
 
Excellent! I used them on the Hedgehog, wouldn't go any other way. Don't forget the AntiSeize.
 
Ouch, I feel your pain there. At least you should be able to get a cover bolt replacement off the bay of e pretty cheap.
 
Maritime said:
Ouch, I feel your pain there. At least you should be able to get a cover bolt replacement off the bay of e pretty cheap.
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I've got a couple of spare engines lying around (I know, as you do) so I'll see what I can cull off them. As long as I can get the fucking thing out of the case then I'm in business, but I think it's in there pretty good. Any suggestions for the best extractor? I read that GrabIt makes a good one
 
All of them can cause you fits but I learned that carefully drilling progressively from small to almost the size of the bolt gives the most chance of success.
 
Some of the guys over on NGW say they run their bikes without the two inner cover bolts anyway, so I'm not too stressed if i can't get it out. The extractor set I have looks average at best, so I'll pick up a Grabit set and see what gives. Right now I have a cable tie holding a 12mm spanner to the frame which in turn is locking the right hand pulley in place (I'm following Octane's instructions for replacing timing belts) so the sooner I can succeed/fail trying to get that bolt out the sooner I can button that job up.
 
yep, that trick is worth every penny. His rightup is printed and added to my shop manual. I've used it 3 times since getting my GL.
 
Thank god for the gurus out there with time on their hands to share the wealth online. I'm indebted, standing on the shoulders of giants
 
I just use a gearhead-type wrench to remove the inner belt cover bolts. I undo the bottom radiator bolts and loosen the top a bit, but don't unhook it or even drain the coolant if I'm just changing belts. But, I have pretty small hands.
 
pidjones said:
I just use a gearhead-type wrench to remove the inner belt cover bolts. I undo the bottom radiator bolts and loosen the top a bit, but don't unhook it or even drain the coolant if I'm just changing belts. But, I have pretty small hands.
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I did that to inspect my belts when my dyna shit the bed. I have big hands and it was damn near impossible for me to get the bolt back in LOL.
 
Maritime said:
I did that to inspect my belts when my dyna shit the bed. I have big hands and it was damn near impossible for me to get the bolt back in LOL.
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You have to put the cover in with the bolt already in it. Also helps to get everything aligned with the outer bolt next. Big paws can't help. Train the youngster early!
 
pidjones said:
You have to put the cover in with the bolt already in it. Also helps to get everything aligned with the outer bolt next. Big paws can't help. Train the youngster early!
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Ha, his hands are the same size as mine now, Holly maybe could in a year or 2 though.
 
PB Blaster'd the sheared-off bolt that was stuck in the crankcase for a few days and managed to get it out yesterday -

JZtUEWCh.jpg


Shit design by the 70's Hondajin has to be said. The thread in the crankcase where this bolt bolts into is open on the rear to the elements so guess what, the elements get in and do their worst. Bolt was totally rusted in there -

KEo5bW7h.jpg


I'm going to be using stainless bolts when I button the transmission cover back on, but may plug up that hole anyway with some JB Weld for good measure. Can't imagine who thought it was a good idea to keep that open in the first place.

The sheared timing cover bolt was a different story. Tried getting the thing out with an extractor but no joy. Looked like it had been cross-threaded - wasn't budging for love or money. Balls to it, it can stay there - I'll attach the covers using the outer bolts only.

Got the timing belts replaced, no drama -

jPOyjaZh.jpg


Question though. Octane's well documented info on how to change the belts was a godsend, but I was a little unclear on how to set the tension on the right-side (when sitting on the bike) belt. Once I'd installed both belts and tensioners (loosely), I then set the tension on the left belt, then rotated the crank through 360° so the timing marks were pointed inwards, then set the tension on the right belt. Is that all there is to it?
 
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Good answer, cheers mate. Waiting on the new water pump, gaskets etc and then I get get the front end closed up again. Pulled the seized calipers off the front and back so now I can actually move this thing around again without having to enlist neighbourly manpower
 
Jimbonaut said:
Good answer, cheers mate. Waiting on the new water pump, gaskets etc and then I get get the front end closed up again. Pulled the seized calipers off the front and back so now I can actually move this thing around again without having to enlist neighbourly manpower
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Nice seized brakes suck
 
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