1980 CB900F Build

cxman

Active Member
the wire bundle also carries the oil pressure switch wire and the neutral switch

oil

neutral

ground

3 stator

2 rotor trigger wires if i recall correctly
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Tim of all trades said:
ohhhhh, that makes sense now. I'm still not gonna try it. My Brother lives a couple hours away in a bigger city and the motorcycle shop there had a rr in stock for $80. I'm going to his place next weekend because us Aussies celebrate "invasion day" next Friday. So when I get back if thats plugged in and things still aren't working I will look in to more drastic measures.
It was 40 degrees hear again today and its going to be hotter over the weekend. So I will be avoiding the garage for a bit.
Where is South Wales? Florida somewhere?
You might be from Oz but I know your not that thick. ;D
The rugby country.
I'm still a British 'subject'. American's seem to like the 'south' Welsh, (Anthony Hopkins, Richard Burton, Katherine Zeta Jones/Douglas , etc - and Me 8) except I'm broke)
 

Tim of all trades

New Member
Quick update: Mirrors arrived. I will have to grind off some rubber to fit them in the bars but im not putting them on until its time for rego because im likely to damage them while working on the bike. My brother picked up a second hand rr but its still at his place and I don't think I will make it over there so he will have to post it. Also the brake caliper rebuild parts should get in tomorrow.
 

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Tim of all trades

New Member
I got brakes! I picked up my parts from the shop today and spent ages trying to bleed the front, turns out one of the bleeders was blocked with some gunk that I didn't clean out and with the help of a mates vacuum bleeder kit I got it done in no time. Now its all connected I'm looking at the nice braided lines I've bought to replace the factory rubber and because I've got clip-ons which are lower then the original bars the new hoses are a little bit too long. I'm thinking of taking them to a hose shop and asking them to cut them a bit shorter.
I haven't bled the rear and tested it because I am going to buy a new reservoir .
Also I put the throttle cables back on and they will need to be shortened a fair amount too, I'm pretty keen to have a crack at that myself. To get the throttle return cable to screw into the handle bar housing I had to drill a hole through a bolt and cut a slit into the length of it to replicate the original part that is missing, its not the prettiest but I will replace it down the track when I get other priority stuff done first.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
File the bolt head to round, make sure to stick some grease in the rubber boot o bolt will rust (unless you used stainless?) I probably have a couple of the correct fittings but as we know, shipping is killer to Oz
If you pull top yoke it may be possible to change angles by loosening banjo bolts and routing so 'long' lines can fit better without excessive bends. That way you shouldn't av to re-bleed system or mess with getting lines cut. You will need to get some brass nipples to shorten throttle cables. Inners may be stainless steel which is a PITA to work with unless you can find some hard solder. In my experience, brazing makes the inner wire brittle and it's likely to break, 'soft solder' is just too soft and cable pulls through nipple. It's easier to use cheap zinc plated bicycle inner wire as solder sticks to it real easy. Keep it oiled and it lasts as long as anything else out there (about 15 yrs / 17,000 miles so far on my XS650)
With the mirrors, junk the bar end mount as it will fall out. Go to 'local' Home Depot / B&Q / etc and get some 6mm Rawlbolts (I think you get the same stuff we had in Britain?) You can tighten them enough to distort alloy bars from the inside ;)

Be VERY careful tightening clamp screw, easy to crack the cast alloy.
 

Tim of all trades

New Member
stayed up really late wiring in the new tail light and thought i'd solved it turning off when I go to high beam by wiring it both the Hi and Low out put sides of the M-unit. I didn't really think that through did I?

Who else can see the obvious problem with doing it that way?
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
You wire tail light to what was originally 'Brown' wire on Honda diagram (everything that needs 12V outside of coils, headlights, etc)
Tail light should be on same circuit as instrument lights
Did you 'blow' taillight when it tried to feed 5 amps back to headlight?
 

Tim of all trades

New Member
I was surprised I didn't burn it out, but no what I effectively did was join Hi and Low beam together so they are both always on regardless of the switch position.
I will rewire the tail light so its on the ignition circuit, I just really wanted the option of being able to turn all the lights off with the engine still running (stealth mode)
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
You should have wiring already in handlebar switch? Does it have ON-OFF position on right hand switch/throttle housing or is it USA type? (blanked off)
I know I'm going to have to dig out manual to check but tail light should be on handlebar switch input not output side
 

Tim of all trades

New Member
I dropped the seat pan off at the upholsterer, he put some foam on it and I chose a material to cover it in. He also quoted me $440 for the work, I was hoping for less but his work is reputable. Also haven't finished the wiring yet as I have been working on some other projects. I have a few fiddly jobs to do on the bike while I wait because I can't pick the seat up until next Tuesday. Hopefully I can do my first test ride then.
 

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Tim of all trades

New Member
Got the seat but it didn't fit on the bike because I didn't allow for the thickness of the material when I made the pan, I bent the tab that sticks out the front down lower and now it fits.

The tail light comes on with the ignition and the hi low beam is back to normal. No stealth mode :( Only problem is with the rear brake return spring, its a bit saggy so it doesn't pull the lever back up so the brake light stays on even after my foot is off the brake. I will add that spring to the list for the next lot of parts to order.
I am missing a bolt to hold the caliper on but the dad of all trades has already put one in the post.

Getting close to the end!
 

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crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Those 'pods' are going to try and turn 'inside out' as they severely restrict airflow over 6k even on a CB/CM400
 

Tim of all trades

New Member
Ok, I am back to working on my bike as this place slowly claws its way out of winter and back above freezing. Also I am back to full time work so have been very busy.
I got got the bike running but not very well so I ordered and installed the dyna-jet kit and I could not believe how good the bike is running now! except... Its only running on the outside two cylinders. I put fresh spark plugs in and tested the coils and they both have good spark, I checked compression and it was good too. Fresh fuel and more carby cleaner with high pressure air gun to triple check that no fuel passage was blocked and also checked the bowls were full of fuel. I swapped the leads from the spark plugs around and it was still just the outside two cylinders that were running. Im thinking that the signal wires are around the wrong way, cant remember if they are coming from the reg/rec or the stator. I working through the weekend and next week but i have a few hours Sunday I can duck home on start digging through the wiring.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
If outside cylinders are running, signal /trigger has to be OK for 1:4. 2:3 could be trigger or ignitor. I think they are either under seat or left side panel. Alloy blocks about 1-1/2" square. Also check wiring from crankcase, I've seen it get damaged by exhaust when it wasn't routed properly. May be worth pulling sprocket cover, just in case something isn't right under there? (seen wiring cut be cover fitted wrong, foreign objects going around with drive chain, etc)
 

cxman

Active Member
pulse generator test

the 4 wires are in pairs yellow and yellow with white trace

blue and blue with white trace

530 ohms plus or minus 60 ohms between each colored pair

no continuity on any of the wires to ground

check for 12v at both coils

swap coils side to side

swap igniters side to side
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
That's what you've done so far? I'll have to dig manual out and take a look at wiring
 
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