1982 CB750F...Better Devil

Cut the sheet steel panels and shaped them to fit the curvature of the frame. I used 16 gauge for the main panel and will try to shape the intakes from 16 too, as I like its solid feel. It'll depend on whether I can get clean folds in the steel where I need them with the tools and equipment I have in my garage - i.e rudimentary. Otherwise I'll pick up some 18. Plan is to cut the shape out of the panel, weld the intake over it and steel epoxy some stainless mesh into the mouth of the intake.

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I'll use a dremel with a cut-off wheel to deep score the fold lines and see if that doesn't help. You're right, this stuff is thicker than I thought so all bets are off. But I definitely like the feel of the 16 gauge over the 18 - the 18 just feels a bit tinny.
 
Oh, and the bike finally has a name. I've had Waylon Jennings on pretty much infinite repeat the last few months, the tank's kinda blue and, well, that's it that's all.

Waymore. :cool:
 
How are you attaching this panel to the other two corners? The frame only has 1 gusset.

Also, you can use a stick welder to attach the stainless mesh if you have one. A 309 stainless electrode will weld stainless to carbon steel without issue.
 
Oh, and the bike finally has a name. I've had Waylon Jennings on pretty much infinite repeat the last few months, the tank's kinda blue and, well, that's it that's all.

Waymore. :cool:
Yeah, but no. It's a dude's name. Riding that would be...not right.

No matter, at this rate I've got another two and a half years before I finish this bike so plenty of time to come up with another one dammit.
 
How are you attaching this panel to the other two corners? The frame only has 1 gusset.

Also, you can use a stick welder to attach the stainless mesh if you have one. A 309 stainless electrode will weld stainless to carbon steel without issue.
I've got a plan for the other top corner which I can probably better draw than explain, but there's a now-unused factory threaded mount in the frame (I think it was originally used to bolt the seat into, not sure) so I'll probably use that somehow. Still not sure about the lower mounting point. Next time I'll weld up some small brackets onto the frame before powdercoat to make mounting these side panels a lot easier.
 
Yeah I thought about them and still have some after buying a bagful for some KLR mods. Wanted to avoid them if possible just for aesthetics but they’re a solid option


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Mark II -

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Cut out the intake from 16 gauge sheet steel, scored the fold lines with the dremel using a clamped-down flat bar as a guide and the thing shaped up pretty good -

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Cocked up the angles a little but it came out better than I thought it would. The 16 gauge has a good solidity to it - anything thinner just feels a bit feak and weable. I bought some Loctite Magic Metal epoxy which is supposed to have a shear strength of a shitload and a tensile strength of way more. The stuff cures pretty fast but I've set up a dummy run to see whether I can use it instead of welding. Why not weld you ask? Why indeed. I still may, depends on a few things coming together in this era of the covid. Need to re-learn how to do it first that's for sure.

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That's going to look great. Is the scoop fake? Since you're using the stock battery box You should make it functional! It would blow some cooler air onto the regulator/rectifier
 
if you go with the epoxy, use the bulk inside and less out and you will have a better look for sure. Although that stuff should sand smooth pretty easily. I like the look you have so far. And if they are going to be functional it will be easy to do the epoxy on the inside of the scoop from the hole in the panel.
 
Looks good!
Epoxy is more than strong enough for that job.
Rough up the surface with some sandpaper before you apply it and it's not going anywhere.
Don't use it for anything structural but otherwise it's good stuff
 
Oh yeah, functional for sure. In fact the primary reason for the intakes is due to clearance - the harness and connectors/regulator are too close to the flat panel and the intake gives them space. Plus there’s the bonus of getting air to the reg/rec.

I’ll cut out the panel before welding/epoxying the intake, and will also be adding some stainless grill into the mouth. Because, grills.

Good news that the epoxy will be more than strong enough. It’ll definitely make for a cleaner look, especially given my dubious welding abilities.


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Redid the scoops again, better angles at the mouth and managed to make them mirror each other pretty closely. Cut out the hole in the side panel and will shape some stainless mesh to fit in the mouth of the intake before welding the thing onto the panel.

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Bending the 16 gauge would have been a huge fail without scoring the steel first. Then it bent right along the line like a champ. I rigged up some flat bar along the line to act as a guide and had at it with the dremel and a cut-off wheel -

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Shingles sucks. Not only does it sound like a sour cream and onion snack, but it feels like you've been taken advantage of by a rhino while being run over by a sherman tank. Advice - don't get it.
 
After what felt like an eternal wait these showed up from Motone Customs today -

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and after a bit lot of massaging (they're designed for modern Triumphs) I got them to fit, and installed the rear indicators (which double up as additional brake lights) -

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Who doesn't love a good lump of billet aluminium.
 
Yeah, you could say that. Being from England it goes with the territory ;)
I knew that :)

That site has some good parts. I have gotten stuff from Flatracer and Titan Performance and the delivery has always been very quick but I guess that now with Covid19, movement is slow.
 
I actually bought these parts from the Motone US site - I had no idea they were based both in the US and UK. They have a great catalogue, some really nice stuff in there. I also bought a led taillight from them, very nicely made indeed. Good gear.
 
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