1982 CB750F...Better Devil

Brodie

Gold Coast, Queensland
DTT SUPPORTER
I was thinking replace the cable as well. High resistance for the power drawn causes heat.
Check the stock cable compared to your new one.
Might be a chance to go with a fancy braided cover.
 

Maritime

Over 10,000 Posts
My old starter on the GL did that. No cleaning it though had to buy new. It would only work with a full charge and if the bike was hot, wouldn't work at all.
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
Hard starting, especially on minimum sized or even too small wire, will cause wires and rubber boots to melt. It also builds up corrosion in the copper, which reduces amperage. Loose wires do the same thing.
 

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
I've had problems with (admittedly old) factory terminal ends on battery cables. They live near a battery, if a standard battery, it's corrosive fumes which get into the connections and accelerate corrosion. Two cages, a garden tractor, and a GL1000 had the same issue one year. Luckily, it is a simple fix.
 

Jimbonaut

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT SUPPORTER
Cool, good to know. Thanks guys - I’ll ditch the cable that’s on there now and revisit fitting the new one I bought. It’s way too long (even though it was advertised as a stock replacement) but I’ll try again to make it work.




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Jimbonaut

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT SUPPORTER
Got the newer cable installed and looks like that's taken care of the problem. No more smoke, or melt. Old cable must've been roached. Got a few other pieces painted, cables installed, damn this thing is nearly done. Just waiting on the damn seat. Again.
 

Jimbonaut

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT SUPPORTER
Pulled the trigger on a Morgan Carbtune, and while I was at it bought the Gunson Colortune kit too along with a 90 degree bezel head screwdriver for the mixture screws and the special screwdriver needed for adjusting the throttle butterflies during a vacuum synch. Covid'll no doubt put the kibosh on them arriving anytime soon, but with the seat still at the upholsterers it looks like I'm still playing the long game.

Found a licensed Cerakote shop fairly locally - the more I think about it the more I want to keep the Kerker exhaust. It looks a little tired but nothing that some Cobra satin black cerakote won't fix. Waiting on the quote, hoping it'll come in cheaper than what a new Delkevic set up would cost.
 

Jimbonaut

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT SUPPORTER
$500 for the cerakote, an extra $250 if I want to completely remove the chrome first. Anyone got any experience with this kind of thing? I've heard it's ok to cerakote over chrome as long as the chrome's in good condition and it's well sandblasted first.
 

Jimbonaut

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT SUPPORTER
If I can get in and out for $500 with the cerakote, I'd save a few bucks. I think a new Delkevic is around $550+/-. I'd scrap the plan if I had to shell out the additional $250 to remove the chrome. Maybe I can get the cerakote price down a bit, at $400 I'd be all in.

I think a satin black cerakote'd exhaust on this bike would look the business. Delkevic would in no way be a bad alternative, but stainless steel.
 

Jimbonaut

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT SUPPORTER
There's a bit of rust on the collector pipes and a few little scrapes, but otherwise I think it'll scrub up pretty well. It's a Kerker - f*cked if I know but I'm told it's a pretty damn good exhaust. Think it would be a shame to dump it. Not sure how easy it would be to sell?
 

CarbsAndCylinders

Careful With That Axe Eugene
Supertrap made the disks that fit the end of the exhaust. You can add disks to increase noise and reduce restriction or remove disks to do the opposite. the exhaust exists sideways between the disks.
 

Jimbonaut

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT SUPPORTER
I’ve pseudo-intellectually flimflammed around with this exhaust for long enough now. Decided against dropping the big bucks on cerakote’ing the thing for...reasons. I’ll get a shiny new Delkevic and be done with it.

Finally manned-up and installed the hitch on the crv that I’ve been avoiding for the last two months. Knew full well the “1 hour max” installation would be an outright lie, and it was. 4 and a half hours later and a significant amount of poor language and I finally got the thing bolted up.

Along the way I was given beer, potato and leek soup, and a lesson - fuck doing that ever again.


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chickenStripCharlie

Been Around the Block
1 hour installation...... usually quoted by their own installer who's done it 100 times. Those things are definitely tricky to wiggle in there.

Good call on the exhaust. It takes a fair bit of effort to blast the factory chrome off. Ask how I know.

Blasting, Smoothing out damage, pick ups and drop offs ...... you're better off just buying that if you have the budget and save your time.

I blasted the chrome off of mine but didnt look to perfect so I wrapped it. I think the place I went to put me in the crushed glass booth. I'm not sure if they had actual sand and if that would have been a bit faster.
 

Jimbonaut

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT SUPPORTER
I'll clean up the Kerker as much as possible and see what I can get for it. New these things are around $1200 US, so hopefully I'll find someone with a Kerker-shaped hole in their life that they gotta fill. Delkevic should be arriving early next week.
 

Jimbonaut

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT SUPPORTER
Supply drop from the UK showed up yesterday -



Never used any of this stuff before but looking forward to having at it. Hopefully I can duck out this arvo and have a crack.
 

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