1982 CB750F...Better Devil

I fill. prime, find mistakes, wet sand with soapy water, then rinse, dry repeat with fill and prime until all is good. one last wetsand and rinse dry and start painting for real. I've done acetone wipes but only on bare steel. I find it removes stuff after that so it's all warm soapy water after there is primer or paint involved.
 
I use Kleen strip - Prep All and I use lint-less rags, before and after sanding. When I wet sand I don't use soap - just water. I don't find its necessary and adding another variable into the mix doesn't sit well with me. A good wax and grease remover is necessary in my book. It will lower your chances of 'fisheyes'. I wear gloves the whole time to minimize the chance of oils contaminating the paint. Filler primers are quite porus and hold onto contaminates really well. I tend to go a little neurotic and get very meticulous with it because if you use high quality paints you can easily be $500 into a paint job in materials alone, you dont want to do it twice. I'm also hesitant about mixing paint brands / lines as I have had cross-link failure between products that were recommended by the paint shop. A great tip I picked up years ago is to take the time to make a tall stand to hold your gas tank, it makes it easier to spray the bottom edges and prevents dust from blowing off the surface below onto your work piece. I know this may seem obvious but I cannot reiterate it enough, read the tech sheets and follow the flash times exactly.

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This is insane. I can't believe the dedication and time put into those comstars ... they do look AWESOME!

As someone with a DOHC CB750, i'm eagerly awaiting to see what you do with the seat on that step-frame.
 
That is the best advice. Go with doc. My paint os good from far but far from good most times. Ive done 2 bikes like doc's and it was way hard in my shop and setup to do very often. It almost killed me so I shoot for good enough most times.
 
I use Kleen strip - Prep All and I use lint-less rags, before and after sanding. When I wet sand I don't use soap - just water. I don't find its necessary and adding another variable into the mix doesn't sit well with me. A good wax and grease remover is necessary in my book. It will lower your chances of 'fisheyes'. I wear gloves the whole time to minimize the chance of oils contaminating the paint. Filler primers are quite porus and hold onto contaminates really well. I tend to go a little neurotic and get very meticulous with it because if you use high quality paints you can easily be $500 into a paint job in materials alone, you dont want to do it twice. I'm also hesitant about mixing paint brands / lines as I have had cross-link failure between products that were recommended by the paint shop. A great tip I picked up years ago is to take the time to make a tall stand to hold your gas tank, it makes it easier to spray the bottom edges and prevents dust from blowing off the surface below onto your work piece. I know this may seem obvious but I cannot reiterate it enough, read the tech sheets and follow the flash times exactly.

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Thank you Doc, this is great - invaluable info all of it. My wife is putting down the hammer with any outdoor/shopping time so I've managed to broker a trip to all the places I have to hit up tomorrow - thanks to your info I've added a few more items to the list. First order of business -

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Wobbly as fuck but nothing that a few brackets and a tie down didn't secure. Thanks for the tip, once again - and not for the last time - here I am Standing On The Shoulders Of Giants.
 
what are you using for sanding blocks? My weapons of choice are Dura Block for hard block, Motor Guard SB-1(best soft block ive ever used) and I use adhesive sandpaper rolls. It seams like a lot to pay for sand paper supplies but it will be worth it in the long run. I use the same blocks and sand paper for metal finishing and polishing as well. the Dura block - long block is my fav for getting waves out of gas tanks. 3M is the best sandpaper tape but if you go to auto paint supply stores they regulary have closeout deals on off-brands. The last time I stocked up they were selling 25 yrd rolls for $7




 
Holy shit, I just swerved into the fast line. Mate I’ve got a big old rubber sanding block, a couple sheets of sandpaper and the same two hands that bought it all. That’s it. I feel...strangely inadequate. I need to level up


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Ok, level upped. Have a 3M sanding block on order from Napa (can't get the SB-1 block here in Canada delivered until next month), but as they may be forced to close any second I have one Prime'd arriving tomorrow -

https://www.amazon.ca/3M-05526-Weto...tor+guard+sanding+block&qid=1585145953&sr=8-8

Think that'll do it for the contoured tank? Believe it or not I had no idea these things even existed which is weird considering all the car shows I used to watch on TV before we pulled the plug on cable. Thanks again for the tips and help, none of this would be happening without it (at least, none of this would be happening well!)
 
This is insane. I can't believe the dedication and time put into those comstars ... they do look AWESOME!

As someone with a DOHC CB750, i'm eagerly awaiting to see what you do with the seat on that step-frame.
Thanks mate, I appreciate that. Yeah the comstars were definitely a labour of love - because you can't take the damn things apart they are a real pain to work on. I was pretty happy with how they finished up though.

I have a few ideas for the seat but the whole thing has stalled now thanks to the state of the world today. Hopefully today I can score some 16 gauge steel to make the pan and then get busy with the thing.
 
Ok, level upped. Have a 3M sanding block on order from Napa (can't get the SB-1 block here in Canada delivered until next month), but as they may be forced to close any second I have one Prime'd arriving tomorrow -

https://www.amazon.ca/3M-05526-Weto...tor+guard+sanding+block&qid=1585145953&sr=8-8

Think that'll do it for the contoured tank? Believe it or not I had no idea these things even existed which is weird considering all the car shows I used to watch on TV before we pulled the plug on cable. Thanks again for the tips and help, none of this would be happening without it (at least, none of this would be happening well!)

yeah that looks like the dura block style. The adhesive sandpaper is where its at though.
 
I'll see what I can find, but I have a can of light tack spray-on adhesive on the list if I have to go ghetto.

My ghetto game is pretty good :cool:
 
Can anyone tell me what the different colour wires are on this connector? (the wires are from the OEM dial cluster) -

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I'm going to re-use the connector and wire my replacement gauges (speedo and tach) into it, but the wires on the new dials are different to the OEM -

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In fact if anyone can tell me which wire on the new gauge corresponds to the OEM wire that would be aces - the speedo did not come with any kind of wiring diagram at all.
 
You should be able to google the oem diagram. And 99% of the time honda always ises the same colour for the same thing on every bike so even a close enough diagram should dom then just test the speedo with a 12v source and label what wire lights up what. Also if the came from DCC they have wiring instructions on their site I believe
 
Which gauge did you get? This is the diagram and instructions for the one I bought. The wiriing is probably similar, if not exactly the same.
digital_gauge.jpg
 
Cheers, that definitely helps. Wiring is not my forte by any means. Pidjones that link to the OEM wiring diagram is really helpful, so I've got that figured out now. But the wires on the new dial are different colours to the DCC model, and any diagram I can find (so far) online for mine is either in Chinese or just doesn't correspond. On mine there's -

Black - ground?
Orange - indicator?
Red/Green - neutral?
Light Blue - indicator?
Dark Blue - high beam?
White/Black -
Red - backlight?
Yellow/Black - oil?

That's my best guess so far - any idea what the white/black wire is? Jesus this stuff hurts my head.
 
I can always hook them up to a 12V battery to check, but I really don't know what the procedure for doing that is. I know how daft that must sound, but wiring really is not my strong point. How exactly do I hook everything up in order to check? My battery is charged, I just don't know how to approach the job of testing which wires do what, or even how to ground the battery. Yeah, I know. Baby steps here would be really, really helpful.
 
I got one from ebay for a project and IIRC the wiring diagram on ebay was different to what arrived. Let me dig it out and see what colors go where.

edit: I dug it out and mine are very different to that configuration. In addition, the speedo sensor that goes at the wheel is wired with different colors that the dial side of the plug but it's the only 3 pin, so that one is easy. The wires that go to 5th gear etc are for the gear indicator, and are probably not needed in this case. The two pin plug is 6th gear indicator. That just leaves the 6 pin and 9 pin to work out.

On mine, the six pin plug is for Neutral light plus gears 1-5. 9 pin coming up. Of course there's no reason to believe that mine is the same as yours, but it might help.

I'll be back ...
 
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Here's what came with mine. You can see from the chicken scratch all over it that it took me a while to work it out. I guess that's the price of cheap gauges. o_O

digital speedo03292020_0001.jpgdigital speedo03292020.jpg

Click on those for a larger version. Good luck
 
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