1982 CB750F...Better Devil

Thanks gents - Charlie the connectors are essentially these things

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- called p clamps. I had to make my own from some 20 gauge steel however as the ones I have didn't quite line up.
 
Profiled and chopped up the rear fender -

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Both front and back will get painted satin black, (largely because there's not a snowball's chance in hell I'm polishing them) but also because I want them to be a bit less conspicuous. Looks a bit weird but hope it’ll right itself once there’s a seat. Winging it a bit, not sure how the lines'll work out or how they'll look, but will certainly find out. May give them a bit of a silver trim too.
 
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Brethren, a question. Figuring out how to wire up and connect the indicators (that do double duty as brake lights) and taillight into the new, non-oem wiring harness. I chopped off the 5 pin connector on the harness so now have 5 wires - 1 for each indicator, one for the brake light, one for the running light and one ground. No drama. Each indicator has three wires - one for the indicator, one for the brake light and one ground. Still no drama. And the taillight also has three wires - one for the brake light, one for the running light and one for the ground. All good.

My idea is to make use of the bullet connectors I have lying around to connect all this shit together, but in order to do that the ground wire and brake light wire will each need three terminals. Is it ok if I cut 2 small lengths off each of them, solder them together to make a kind of trident and then attach bullet connectors to each end?
 
You can do that. When I set up wiring I try to keep in mind that each separate component may need to be changed or replaced at some time so I try to make sure that each component can be easily unhooked from the "bundle" and then it's replacement can be plugged back in. Does that make things more complicated and make for more overall wiring? Yup. But that's just me. I strongly suspect that when we wire a bike, no matter how careful and methodical we are, the next owner will someday end up thinking, "What the hell was he thinking?" Right now I'm about 97% happy w/ how my bike is wired (I feel I need to make a couple small clean-up changes) and everything is working pretty much just like I want it to; I'm pretty happy w/ it. However, if most people were to lift off my seat pan and look in there they'd take a while to understand it and think it looks like a rat's nest. Guess what I'm trying to say is do what makes you happy. Temporarily hook "controversial" connections w/ test leads first to make sure everything works as you want it to before you go final and you should be ok. My two cents worth... before inflation.
 
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Funny you say that - the PO of this bike did a right number on the harness, jacked in a bunch of peripherals, wrapped bare wires around bare wires, proper spaghetti chaos. I was thinking the same as you - either one day I may need/want to switch something out or the next owner will and I (nor they) won't want to chop into the harness to do so. Thanks for the advice and go-ahead - I'll have a go tomorrow at wiring in those bullets.
 
One other comment I remembered: I know that some like to run wires for the + leads and then simplify things by putting everything - directly to the frame. It seems like the manufacturers seem to do a combination of both. I felt more comforatable trusting actual wire whenever possible but I guess that's just me.
 
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Wiring is not my strong point - I'm going to keep this as simple as possible. Wire to wire.

By the way, for some reason (font maybe?) your posts in the DTT app don't show up for me. Here, no problem - but nada in the app. Just thought you should know.
 
Jim you may want to look at getting the triple bullet conectors. One crimp and 3 bullets can be inserted. Saves some work
 
Triple bullet connectors, I didn't even know they were a thing. Guessing they're not the kind of thing you can pick up at the 'Tire?
 
Oh yeah, I forgot about that site. I'll probably stick wth the bullet connectors I bought from Princess Auto (they're tough little buggers, think they'll do) but will keep that site in mind for sure. Thanks for the reminder
 
I used some of the PA style, same as CT and I find they go bad after a few seasons on a bike that gets wet. the other are OEM Japan and much better quality. also they get stuck together after a few months and end up breaking trying to pull them apart.
 
Bullets. Lots of bullets...

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Hopefully they won't crap out after a couple of seasons - I'll see what I can cull from the old harness in the way of rubber sleeves to keep them as protected as possible. Wired in the indicators and taillight and mocked them up -

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The taillight is a led unit from Motone - annoyingly it didn't come with the right hardware to mount so that was a pain in the ass. Still, all good now - except I'm not sure about the running light. Is it supposed to come on as soon as the ignition is turned? Or only when the engine is running? As of now it doesn't come on when the ignition is on (unless I turn the key all the way to 'park'), but I did not start the engine to see if it comes on then.
 
Looks good, you may have used the park circuit instead of the tail light. the tail light wire I think is the same color as the low beam headlight and the park is brown??? I can't remember but I'll go look at your wiring diagram.
 
ok so your tail light is the brown, and it should be on with key in "run" View attachment 225901 Check the switch, I've seen the wire snap off the underside. there is 2 browns that are spliced coming out of the switch. one side is the park and the other is the tail light.

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Oh shit, here we go again :p

That would be the actual ignition column, right? It's a brand new harness so hopefully that's not the issue - would the problem be on the actual connector on the ignition column itself?
 
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