1982 CB750F... The resto-not

teazer

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IRK:

Are those 10mm to AN adapters in the caliper and M/C? You can also get hoses made up with metric straight end fittings.
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
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teazer said:
IRK:

Are those 10mm to AN adapters in the caliper and M/C? You can also get hoses made up with metric straight end fittings.
Yes, they are. Seems to be cheaper to go with the metric to AN fittings and Russell DOT hoses. I'm spending half of what it costs for Galfer or Venhill. I don't think Galfer even does anything but banjo hoses. And Venhill does the same as the Russell hoses with an AN fitting to a banjo. I'd be interested in someone who does a line with a metric fitting to have the line be one piece. I haven't found one yet.
 

The Jimbonaut

Active Member
Spanking new pistons and cylinder block with the machine shop, and while it's there they're doing me a solid and fixing the busted fins too for a good price. Once I haul it back to my garage I can finally empty the cans of satin black paint that have been sitting on the shelf for two months onto the thing. It might actually start to look like something.
 

cb250nproject

If you can make it better do so
You’ll have to show us some before and after shots of the fins I’m interested to see how they come up. Are you going to run the same cams now that you’ve gone to 823cc ?


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teazer

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irk miller said:
Yes, they are. Seems to be cheaper to go with the metric to AN fittings and Russell DOT hoses. I'm spending half of what it costs for Galfer or Venhill. I don't think Galfer even does anything but banjo hoses. And Venhill does the same as the Russell hoses with an AN fitting to a banjo. I'd be interested in someone who does a line with a metric fitting to have the line be one piece. I haven't found one yet.
There are suppliers on ebay that will make them up with almost any normal end fitting. I have had them made with female 10mm and male 10mm. There used to be a place in the UK that had the most amazing options of end fittings in anodized aluminum or steel, straight or banjo. Fren turbo do teh same (or used to) but a bit expensive.

I have bought a bunch from this ebay seller. Only issues were where I measured wrong and can't really blame a supplier for my screw ups. http://www.ebaystores.com/Rennsport-Auto-Parts
 

doc_rot

Oh the usual... I bowl, I drive around...
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Jimbonaut said:
This 3AN is new to me...is 3AN the male and -3AN the female?
3AN is short for -3AN. AN stands for Army/Navy the 3 denotes how many sixteenths of an inch the ID of the tube is, in this instance -3AN is 3/16" ID a -4AN is 4/16 (1/4") and so on. Its worth nothing that this size is a nominal value, tube ID is often smaller than the stated size. IIRC the reason AN fittings were developed was to standardize lines across a large variety of machines, reducing the need for proprietary lines.

I personally like the Goodridge lines, which are for use with banjos. Ive setup many bikes with them and the lines are pre-fabricated and sold in a variety of lengths.
 

The Jimbonaut

Active Member
Thanks Doc for the expanded info on the 3AN fittings and teaser for the link. I'll look into my options some more and then decide, but I've learnt a lot more than I knew last week about brake lines just from your last few posts. Cheers fellas.

cb250nproject - I have some CB 900 cams that I'll be installing instead of stock. The situation was kinda fortuitous (for me anyway) but 900 cams are mine nonetheless. I'm told they're a simple drop in - just need to check for any clearance issues that I may have between the cam lobes and the head. That's on the to-do list. Right now I'm waiting on the machine shop to finish up the cylinders, but this weekend we're doing a market down in Toronto so tools are sadly downed for the next few days. Sucks too - it's the first bit of dry weather we've had in what seems likes weeks, so the KLR's gonna have to fidget until I'm back.
 

pidjones

Active Member
You can buy all of the Goodridge fittings and line (Amazon lists them) and make your own to length/clocking/end type. I used their small line and banjos for the upper front on the Hunley. The line is no bigger than a throttle cable sheath.
 

The Jimbonaut

Active Member
Remembered that it was recommended to check clearances on the CB900 cams I'll be using. I bought a valve spring compressor tool off amazon for $35 (and saved having to ask my long-suffering mate if I could borrow his tools again) which had one job to do and did it perfectly. Out came the valves, dropped in the 900 cams and they fit just fine - no clearance issues. Apparently these cast heads can have slight size differences in some areas and it's a good idea to check even though 900 cams are a straight swap -



Looks like no drama in that dept so got the valves back in (with some more assembly lube) - hoping to get my newly-bored cylinder block back from the machine shop soon and this lump's gonna get painted. In the meantime - Ottawa for mother-in-law's day.
 

cb250nproject

If you can make it better do so
Jimbonaut said:
Remembered that it was recommended to check clearances on the CB900 cams I'll be using. I bought a valve spring compressor tool off amazon for $35 (and saved having to ask my long-suffering mate if I could borrow his tools again) which had one job to do and did it perfectly. Out came the valves, dropped in the 900 cams and they fit just fine - no clearance issues. Apparently these cast heads can have slight size differences in some areas and it's a good idea to check even though 900 cams are a straight swap -



Looks like no drama in that dept so got the valves back in (with some more assembly lube) - hoping to get my newly-bored cylinder block back from the machine shop soon and this lump's gonna get painted. In the meantime - Ottawa for mother-in-law's day.
That’s very lucky that all the valve clearances were spot on what were they at ? I had a lot of issues getting the clearances within tolerance when I changed my cams over.


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The Jimbonaut

Active Member
cb250nproject said:
That’s very lucky that all the valve clearances were spot on what were they at ? I had a lot of issues getting the clearances within tolerance when I changed my cams over.
I dropped the cams in to check the clearances on the head itself, not the valve shims - that'll come later.
 

cb250nproject

If you can make it better do so
Jimbonaut said:
I dropped the cams in to check the clearances on the head itself, not the valve shims - that'll come later.
Ahhh I c, you’ll need, a pad & pencil, shim bucket tool,heaps of shims, booze and a stress ball


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The Jimbonaut

Active Member
cb250nproject said:
Ahhh I c, you’ll need, a pad & pencil, shim bucket tool,heaps of shims, booze and a stress ball
Ha! Yeah mate, have all of those things (minus the heap of shims but I have a go-to for that). Don't have a stress ball but do have the wife's cat, poor fucker.

I had to re-shim the valves on my last CB build so know the drill. One trick I've learnt since is to sand down the casting ridges and polish the bucket tool as these can snag when you're getting the bugger under the cams.
 

The Jimbonaut

Active Member
I'm just gonna park this here, for my sake as well as anyone else who's down with T00L

. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQ-TD8dVq1U













That's it, that's all.
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
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Jimbonaut said:
I'm just gonna park this here, for my sake as well as anyone else who's down with T00L

. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQ-TD8dVq1U













That's it, that's all.
Our good friend Kanticoy was at that show. He's a B'ham (Moody) local.
 

The Jimbonaut

Active Member
Got the call from the machine shop - hopefully will be picking up the newly over-bored cylinder block today or tomorrow. I'm also thinking that maybe now would be a good time to replace the A and B cam chains as well. I forget whose build it was here on DTT that posted a vid of their 750 running but the engine sounded so sweet, no rattles from loose chains at all.

Does anyone have any suggestions on where to look for well priced (but good quality) chains, or brands to look for and/or avoid? I know they're not cheap but for sure I get why. Also, how easy/complicated is it to remove the A chain and replace it with a new one (without splitting the cases)?

I found this supplier which has both for very (I think) reasonable prices, and they're also based here in Canada which is a big plus -

https://www.vintagecb750.com/products/4/engine/59/cam-chain-cam-chain-tensioners

I've emailed them to find out what brand the chains are, looks like the B chain is DID but I'm not sure about the A yet.
 

The Jimbonaut

Active Member
Right on Crabs, I've seen them a few times and - if they actually do release their new album end of August - hope to see them again soon. A few of us old timers are getting revved up here in MTL to go kick the f*cking roof clean off.

Waiting on this cam chain info from the seller. The more I think about it the more I'm ok with dropping a few bucks on the things. I want this engine to purrrrrr.
 
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