Thanks Teazer, much appreciated - fingers crossed. In the event that our wires are different, how would I go about hooking the gauges up to a battery (safely) to test everything? I know it needs to be grounded but even that is a mystery.
1982 CB750F...Better Devil
- Thread starter Jimbonaut
- Start date
I think this is right -
Black - ground
Orange - left indicator
Red/Green - neutral switch (positive)
Light Blue - right indicator
Dark Blue - high beam
White/Black - neutral and oil pressure (ground)
Red - gauge backlight
Yellow/Black - oil pressure (positive)
If that's correct, am I right in thinking to test everything I connect the black wire to the negative terminal on my battery charger and then touch each of the other wires in turn to the positive terminal and see what lights up?
If so, what about the White/Black wire which (I think) is the ground for the neutral switch and oil pressure? What terminal on my charger would I touch that to - the negative? And then, with the black and white wire on the negative, then touch the red/green (neutral switch) and yellow/black (oil pressure) to the positive?
I just don't want to blow anything up. Shit this stuff really messes with my melon. It's just not intuitive for me at all. Thanks for any help.
Black - ground
Orange - left indicator
Red/Green - neutral switch (positive)
Light Blue - right indicator
Dark Blue - high beam
White/Black - neutral and oil pressure (ground)
Red - gauge backlight
Yellow/Black - oil pressure (positive)
If that's correct, am I right in thinking to test everything I connect the black wire to the negative terminal on my battery charger and then touch each of the other wires in turn to the positive terminal and see what lights up?
If so, what about the White/Black wire which (I think) is the ground for the neutral switch and oil pressure? What terminal on my charger would I touch that to - the negative? And then, with the black and white wire on the negative, then touch the red/green (neutral switch) and yellow/black (oil pressure) to the positive?
I just don't want to blow anything up. Shit this stuff really messes with my melon. It's just not intuitive for me at all. Thanks for any help.
Just tested everything by hooking it up to my battery charger - the only wire that does bugger all is the white/black wire. I tested the OEM cluster - the only way to get the oil light and neutral light to come on was to hook up them up to the negative terminal and the black/brown wire to the positive.
But on the aftermarket the oil light and neutral light illuminate when they’re connected to the positive. So the black/white wire would connect to the negative? Fuck I’m confused.
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But on the aftermarket the oil light and neutral light illuminate when they’re connected to the positive. So the black/white wire would connect to the negative? Fuck I’m confused.
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Shit I gotta write this down, for my sake as much as trying to explain the headache I’ve got. Ok.
On the OEM cluster, I’ve got the green (neutral) wire hooked up to the -ve terminal on my charger. The indicator lights, the high beam light and the backlight all illuminate when I connect them to the +ve. The oil pressure light and the neutral light don’t. They only illuminate when I connect the +ve terminal to the Black/Brown wire and the -ve to the Blue/Red (oil), and Light Green/Red (neutral).
But on the aftermarket it’s different. With the black wire (ground) hooked up to the -ve, all the lights (oil, indicator, high beam, neutral) illuminate when they’re hooked up to the +ve. The red wire (supposedly for the backlight) doesn’t work but screw the backlight anyway. Which means the black/wire is the mystery.
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On the OEM cluster, I’ve got the green (neutral) wire hooked up to the -ve terminal on my charger. The indicator lights, the high beam light and the backlight all illuminate when I connect them to the +ve. The oil pressure light and the neutral light don’t. They only illuminate when I connect the +ve terminal to the Black/Brown wire and the -ve to the Blue/Red (oil), and Light Green/Red (neutral).
But on the aftermarket it’s different. With the black wire (ground) hooked up to the -ve, all the lights (oil, indicator, high beam, neutral) illuminate when they’re hooked up to the +ve. The red wire (supposedly for the backlight) doesn’t work but screw the backlight anyway. Which means the black/wire is the mystery.
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Black and white on mine goes to the speedo sender. and Green on pins 18 and 19 and ground and they are solid green and not green/black that wiring diagram claims.
The two warning lights might be wired power to sender to light to ground or Power to light to sender to ground and it's possible that OEM and aftermarket made opposite choices.
Now I get where the extression Cluster f@*k comes from...
The two warning lights might be wired power to sender to light to ground or Power to light to sender to ground and it's possible that OEM and aftermarket made opposite choices.
Now I get where the extression Cluster f@*k comes from...
What's a speedo sender?
Here's what I found on the web. Mine came with no instructions and this is from a different seller but I'm 99% sure it's the same item -
Does that mean much to anyone? I had to step away from the thing, otherwise I'd've had a stroke right there in my garage.
Clusterfuck is right.
Here's what I found on the web. Mine came with no instructions and this is from a different seller but I'm 99% sure it's the same item -
Does that mean much to anyone? I had to step away from the thing, otherwise I'd've had a stroke right there in my garage.
Clusterfuck is right.
I had to edit my response, because, for some reason my page didn't refresh so I missed those last posts.
Speedo sensor is the piece you attach on your lower fork in some fashion down by your brake rotor. Usually, you install magnets on the rotor bolts and the sensor reads their rotation .
Black - ground
Orange - left turn
Red/Green - neutral switch
Light Blue - right turn
Dark Blue - high beam indicator
White/Black - Speed sensor
Red -power
Yellow/Black - Usually this is tach, when there is a tach.
Speedo sensor is the piece you attach on your lower fork in some fashion down by your brake rotor. Usually, you install magnets on the rotor bolts and the sensor reads their rotation .
Black - ground
Orange - left turn
Red/Green - neutral switch
Light Blue - right turn
Dark Blue - high beam indicator
White/Black - Speed sensor
Red -power
Yellow/Black - Usually this is tach, when there is a tach.
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Thanks man - I should have probably made it clearer - this is a speedo with a cable, not one with a sensor.
I was asking teazer what a speedo sender was because he mentioned one in his post - think he meant sensor?
So I’ve still got to figure out the black/white wire is. I’m pretty sure it’s got something to do with the oil light and neutral light, but the wiring layout (not just colours) seems to be different to the OEM?
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I was asking teazer what a speedo sender was because he mentioned one in his post - think he meant sensor?
So I’ve still got to figure out the black/white wire is. I’m pretty sure it’s got something to do with the oil light and neutral light, but the wiring layout (not just colours) seems to be different to the OEM?
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Oil and neutral switches both work positive to ground, so they require a ground connection, which is your black/white wire.
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
Yep, black white is your ground for all the accessories and the solid black looks like the ground just for if there is an unswitched power needed? actually that is probably the back light grounds seperate on that guage. So ground the 2 blacks and then the rest go off to the + of each blinker(s) connect left and right to same wire, neutral, oil, high beam.
Thanks again for your help with this wiring headache - had to step away from the thing for a while but hopefully some fresh eyes and clear head'll make it make more sense. No doubt I'll be back to pester y'all more about the damn thing though, so don't relax too much just yet - just needed not to be looking at wires for while.
Meanwhile I've been working on finishing up the tank. Thanks a bunch for all your help guys, and also a big shout out to tWistedWheelz if he's still knocking about here for his invaluable write-up on "rattle-can bling" in the bodywork and painting section here on dtt - https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?threads/rattle-can-bling-everything-is-here.10993/
I pretty much followed that to a t, and although I didn't have enough paint to give the tank quite so many colour coats I'm really happy with how it came out. Bondo'd, 2K primer, Duplicolor primer sealer, House Of Kolor Shimrin 2 paint and 2K Spraymax gloss clear -
Meanwhile I've been working on finishing up the tank. Thanks a bunch for all your help guys, and also a big shout out to tWistedWheelz if he's still knocking about here for his invaluable write-up on "rattle-can bling" in the bodywork and painting section here on dtt - https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?threads/rattle-can-bling-everything-is-here.10993/
I pretty much followed that to a t, and although I didn't have enough paint to give the tank quite so many colour coats I'm really happy with how it came out. Bondo'd, 2K primer, Duplicolor primer sealer, House Of Kolor Shimrin 2 paint and 2K Spraymax gloss clear -
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chickenStripCharlie
Coast to Coast
That looks great!
Question .... have you done a breakdown of DIY vs paying for paint job? Spray paint cost really adds up. One can doesn't really go that far. How much did you spend for all the 2k paint that you needed and how much would it have been to just pay someone?
I'm going to be painting my tank soon and I hate paint. I'm not very good at it, so investing a lot in expensive paint for mediocre results might not be for me. lol
Question .... have you done a breakdown of DIY vs paying for paint job? Spray paint cost really adds up. One can doesn't really go that far. How much did you spend for all the 2k paint that you needed and how much would it have been to just pay someone?
I'm going to be painting my tank soon and I hate paint. I'm not very good at it, so investing a lot in expensive paint for mediocre results might not be for me. lol
You can pretty much paint a whole bike for under $100US. I've never paid anyone to do it, so I can't compare. But I am completely satisfied to be under a bill doing it myself.
