1982 CB750F...Better Devil

[Maritime]

Most 2K clears have isocynates which are real toxic. they have no odor and can absorb through your skins and eyes as well which makes them particularily dangerous. Depending where you live it can be illegal to spray them in residential areas

It should be stated, gloves, coveralls with hood, googles and full respirator are mandatory when spraying 2k. I'm in the woods so outside is fine for me but wife Kids and pets go for a drive someplace while I do it.

 

[Maritime]

Yeah I'm glad I ordered two cans of the stuff. The method I followed called for a lot of coats so maybe that was it, but still each can didn't seem to go that far.

One thing that I've learnt is that you absolutely can not fuck around with 2K aerosols. They've got all kinds of nasty shit in them so you want to make sure you're wearing at least a decent respirator mask (not a dust mask), and ideally some kind of air-fed mask if possible. I have a decent respirator mask, gloves and full overalls so no skin is exposed. No messing - you do not want this stuff getting where you don't need it. No bueno.

Should add goggles or min safety glasses. it can enter your body through your eyes as well.

 

[SONICJK]

As you have found out a good paint job is very labor intensive!

Add to everything you did the fact that a professional has to mix each coat and clean guns between coats, maintain a shop, replace filters, etc and you start to see why good paint work is expensive.
It's not something that you can just wing it and have it come out nicely, it takes a lot of attention to detail and fine meticulous work whether you're in your garage or in a fully outfitted shop.

 

[Jimbonaut]

It’s a lot of work, I can absolutely vouch for that. And not rushing the steps is key - flash and cure times for example really need to be stuck to. I’m definitely not a patient man, so that part sucked.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON

 

[SONICJK]

It’s a lot of work, I can absolutely vouch for that. And not rushing the steps is key - flash and cure times for example really need to be stuck to. I’m definitely not a patient man, so that part sucked.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON

Agreed I'm not a big fan of paining not nearly patient enough.
That's why I love powder coat. Blast it, coat it, 20 min in the oven and it's done!
Doesn't look nearly as pretty as that tank though.

 

[Jimbonaut]

Thanks man - the painting part I enjoyed, it was just the waiting part that was painful! Even the prep was pretty straight forward - it's all about carefully following the steps. To be honest the bondo and dent repair was the biggest challenge for me - that and trying to mitigate all the shit floating around in my dirty garage from landing on the fresh paint

 

[Maritime]

I have learned to set timers and follow them to not rush it. I dont take chances anymore on counting 1 1 thousand 2 1 thousand lol

 

[Jimbonaut]

First signs of anything resembling life in a long time...

These things are b-r-i-g-h-t. Kinstecks led indicator/running lights. Had to modify the headlight bracket I bought from Speedmotoco to make them fit but fit they do.

I hooked up the wiring harness inasmuch as I connected a battery charger to it, -ve to the ground strap and +ve to the harness via the 30 amp fuse on the starter relay. The indicators don't flash orange when I flick the indicator switch but I think that's because I don't have an led relay connected yet (the one I bought does not fit the terminal) - they do stay white however when the ignition is switched on.

I can't get the headlight to work at all. Checked its plug on the harness with a screwdriver-with-a-bulb-in-it-that-illuminates-when-you-touch-a-live-wire thingy and nothing happened. Does something else need to be connected to the wiring harness in order for the headlight to work? Right now literally nothing is plugged into the harness other than the handlebar switches, the fuses, the ignition and front indicators.

 

[Maritime]

Check your diagram but yes there is multiple plugs for headlight in a lot of the Honda Spaghetti harnesses.

 

[Jimbonaut]

I had a look at the diagram - I wish I understood more about the principals of the things. I understand how the electricity needs a complete loop to work, the flow from the +ve to the -ve (via grounding), but the diagrams have never made enough sense to me that I can take a look at one and work everything out. My grasp on the electrical aspect of the build is thick milky at best.

If anyone can point me towards a good tutorial on moto electrical basics that would be brilliant - I really would love to learn more about this dark science. As it stands now the electrics are just one big roadblock. Any help will be rewarded by untold riches, hordes of attractive and unprincipled women and access to illicit whisky stills. I have...connections.

 

[Maritime]

Ha. I can look and see if I can find your diagram on the google and trace what needs to be hooked up for the light to work. It goes through the bar switch, the starter button and a bunch of other places normally so if any one is not connected it won't complete the magic loop.

 

[Jimbonaut]

That would be brilliant Mike, any help in deciphering the diagram would be great - not only for this headlight but hopefully to give me some insight into how moto electrics (and their diagrams) actually work.

 

[Maritime]

I found one but haven't had a chance to poor over it yet. Do you have all your harness plugged in where they need to go? Start there, even if you aren't running the bike yet there are plugs that need to be connected for full circuits to complete. the headlight is tricky because it lights off the battery and from the stator when running and goes through the starter button control and the switch on the left bar so all those things need to be clicked together.

 

[Maritime]

I got electrical issues on the GL I need to sort out tonight. Overcharging, no signals, lots of fun as I don't have a diagram I need to figure WTF I did 4 years ago when I rewired the whole shebang.

 

[Jimbonaut]

Today was a day of telephone calls to bank managers, mortgage advisers and web developers. Needless to say it was infinitely improved when Miss Postlady turned up and gave me something I've been waiting on a while. Quick scrub up and polish and got it installed -

Small things making the big things happen.

 

[Maritime]

Nice

 

[Jimbonaut]

Still can't get the damn headlight working. I hooked up the wiring harness, battery cage (with starter relay, spark units, reg/rec, starter relay) and handlebar controls but still no dice. Everything is plugged into the harness now except the stator, starter motor, rear lights, rear brake switch, horn, speedo and tach.

Worth noting -

- brand new harness
- new led indicators that double up as running lights
- fuse is fine

I checked the headlight plug with a test light, ignition on, and none of the three connectors had power. Might it have something to do with the new indicators/running lights? Or does the headlight need to be grounded in some way? Does anything else need to be plugged into the harness in order for the headlight to work? Like the rear lights? I remember my other CB had a ground strap that connected to the inside of the bucket, but there's no such strap in this bucket. This'll sound a bit assumptive, but if anyone who knows their onions can figure the wiring diagram out and give me a pointer then Christ doing cartwheels I'd be grateful -

 

[Maritime]

The 3 prongs on the light are reg beam, high beam and ground. If your test light showed nada at the plug your issues is someolace else. Ill look at the diagram on the pc later and trace the circuits you need to test and see where the issue is.

 

[Maritime]

OK, using your test light grounded. Check these spots for it to light up and we'll find the issue. The ground on the headlight is shared with the horn and all the running lights so if they work it's likely not the ground. So 12V + comes from: Fuse#2 Headkight, start there and test before and after the fuse. The test light should light when you touch either side with probe. If not you have a bad fuse, and it may look good but the holder may be corroded if you are still using the glass tubes. the can look fine but a quit hit with emry cloth and you can fix it. If good there, test theblack and red wire at the starter button. if that works test the blue white, if that works at the high low switch, wth switch in low test the white, if good your plug is bad at the light. switch to high and test the blue if that is good again the plug is bad. let me know how it goes and if need be give me a call. Cheers.

 

[Jimbonaut]

Good man, thanks a million as a always Mike. Gonna head to the garage in a bit and see what gives, I'll report back. I did check the fuses - the test light should illuminate when I touch either end? I know they all illuminated when I touched one end but can't be sure both ends did. Good (and easy) place to start