2b's Ace

[2b]

Tidied up the back of the bike. See the before and after shots below.

Indicators NZ$35 (For four)
Stop/Reg Plate/Running /Indicator light all in one NZ$40
New standard (legal!) number plate NZ$23

Managed to hide both the registration and warrant of fitness stickers behind the number plate. I would like to have a custom number plate made a bit smaller, but all too easy to get pulled up for that sort of thing in NZ.

The all in one tail light unit has indicators wired in parallel to the main ones. So my intentions should be clear.

 

[RobNZ]

Looking good B2. The square plates really suit the bikes huh!!


Haven't fitted mine yet... Tomorrow

We need to meet up soon dude! When suits?

 

[2b]

Workshop in Godzone Golden Bay while away on holiday. Fashioning a new holder for the ignition switch to go on the old EGR brackets out of an old bottle opener.


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[2b]

Starting to look at installing my new speedo/tacho. See picture below. Most of the wiring translates easily to existing wires used by the current status unit and speedo.

Just wondering about what to use for the earth, positive and post ignition switch wires.

Thinking the earth can be a green wire that is already used by current units.

Not sure which existing wires to use for the battery feed and post ignition switch feed and how best to tap in to them.

Suggestions welcome.

 

[orrible-64]

2b

take off your pipe and take a die grinder /dremel to the weld inside the pipe at the flange end and smooth it away till flush with pipe inner wall of your chrome pipe.this weld takes inner pipe diameter down to 21mm. grinder out up to 41mm ten mins with grinder should improve power problem. i just did this and found power gains..also match ported head and polished inside of combustion chamber for fun. sorry if typing is crap but best i can do within one arm in a cast

 

[HerbertD]

Hi 2b,

Saw that you were thinking of relocating your ignition switch. I did the same - When I put on my analogue Tacho & Speedo, it caused one of the ignition wires to chaff as it shorted out and blew the fuse, forcing me to rethink. Courtesy of OOracing, I now have a smart Chrome ignition switch, and relocated to the EGR brackets instead. (see photo)

I subsequently replaced my cheap (Km)metric speedo with a much higher quality unit that is in mph and very pleased with the result. Although both analogue speedos look very similar, there is a massive difference in the quality and performance. With the cheaper unit, (Approx $15.00) it over-read by at least 20 - 25% and the speedo needle flickered like mad at anything over 50 km/h. With the new imperial version, it was much more expensive (Circa $70.00) but is absolutely spot on in terms of accuracy and function. The needle does not flicker and now very happy!


Incidentally, on both speedo's I took the live feed from the Black wire on the ignition line, and the ground is just onto one of the nuts by the coil. Having now fitted 3 speedo's / Tacho's, I am coming quite familiar with the Ace's wiring! I normally hate vehicle electrics, but working on the ACE has given me good practice to overcome my fears!
[pic]
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Old Speedo (Crap)
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[joeylimzy]

hey, wanna check did you manage to install the T&T speedo tacho?

 

[2b]

Yep, it looks great. I will post pics on the weekend. Everything works fine BUT tachometer is all over the place. See the main skyteam resource topic on here for more details. Have tried a few things, next is to insert a diode in the circuit over the weekend to try and clean up the signal. After that I will work with a local mechanic to troubleshoot before taking the supplier up on their offer of returning the unit and getting a replacement (from NZ to Germany :-( )


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[2b]

Cosmetic side almost finished. Real pleased with the belt. $1 in a second hand shop. Black on the back and red on the other three sides.

Hospital bed is great and now with a nice long ramp, not at all worrying to get the bike on and off without straining my troublesome back.

Cosmetic changes yet to come...
The tacho/speedo will get mounted lower and further forward in the void between the bars and the headlight.
I will experiment with some black corflute attached with cable ties to protect under seat and back of airbox electrics.
Bottle opener/ignition switch holder to be painted black.

 

[stroker crazy]

Nice!!

Crazy

 

[Tune-A-Fish]

I have a chance to scavenge parts from a 2007 Sktyeam ST150 dirt bike. Just 20 hours of usage. A mate bought it for his kids but it was too heavy and has just sat in his garage.

Thinking about
Engine or just head, cylinder piston etc to do the 150 upgrade?
Carb CARBURETOR (150CC)(Keihin PTGM34BTGaST) How do I figure out if this is better than current stock one?
Rear hub and disk brake (would need relacing to my rim and an appropriate sprocket as the ST150 rear wheel is 16 inch)

Parts list here
http://www.skyteamcanada.com/st150y1_parts.htm

Any thoughts?

I would say if the axle is the same size go for the swap at both ends for the brakes, the motor is the perfect opportunity to bench build it to perform how you ultimately want it for power all the while riding and testing with the stock motor.

I put this up before, but I was able to get a pair of these 34mm (Honda 150 spec) Keihin's for $80US a pair on eBay. NOS carbs showed up, not a bad deal.

 

[joeylimzy]

hows the wiring? any issue ? and for the tachometer, is it accurate? and could you take some pics of your front disc? where you pick up the speed signal

 

[2b]

Wiring was not hard. But a bit of a fiddle for me, as I had not done any wiring before. I bought good connectors (and lots of spares so I could stuff it up), a good crimper and took it slowly. I still haven't got the tacho working correctly yet though. The supplier has been very helpful, they even offered to send me a special pick up unit and/or a replacement unit. I suspect the Ace though. Some noise in the wiring somewhere.

Over the next few weeks I will...
Try rerouting the cables to keep the whole length of the tachometer wire, from pickup to the tachometer, away from the coil and ignition wire. I think as a trial, I will also take the unit completely off the bike and run the wires out 90 degrees to the side to see how that goes.
Try running standalone positive and earth direct to the relevant battery terminals. I will put a fuse in the postive wire just in case.
Try it on a different bike
Try a friends tachometer on my bike.

I really, really like the look of this unit and can't imagine using anything else, so I will keep going at it until it is solved. When it is resolved, I will look at getting the bracket below to remount the unit on the standard instrument holes and that way it will be further forward and down filling the space between the bars and the headlight. I will also then see the speed without having to tilt my head down.

Theres a picture of the speedo pick up below. I had to buy a longer bolt for the caliper and then I ran the pick up cable along the stainless steel brake cable using cable ties. I used all five magnets that were provided, you can see them on the bolt heads. It works very well when tested against my GPS. Just a fraction out at the moment. I have circumference set to 1870mm but will change to1890mm and by my calculations it should then me absolutely spot on. To test I will reset the trip meter on the speedo and gps and then go for a long ride. rather than try and watch the speedo and gps speeds.

 

[sprocket2cog]

looking good, shame about the tacho noise

 

[orrible-64]

I got signal for my tacho from the + ve wire on the coil . Black with yellow stripe I think.


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[joeylimzy]

Nice! Im also planning to buy a koso T&T speedo. now i can see how it looks like.
Thank you so much

 

[2b]

Koso have a huge range to choose from. I am sure mine was made by them, but does not say Koso anywhere on it. The Koso branded equivalent has a few more features than my tumbleton & twist version. Koso tnt-01 is on about p 62
http://kosonorthamerica.com/backup/catalog/koso_2015_gauges.pdf

But this is what I bought because I like the t&t logo better than the koso one
https://www.louis.de/en/artikel/digital-cockpit-tumbleton-and-twist/10034806

I am guessing tumbleton and twist did the design for them and have their own version made but let koso sell their versions as TNT.


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[2b]

joeylimzy..... Tacho now works perfectly! Go for it.

I unwound the coil earth wire which the factory had wrapped one and half times around the wire from CDI to coil.

Shortened the wires that tapped in to the CDI to coil wire.

Replaced all the supplied connectors with my own, crimped and insulated to my liking.

Went for test ride to get speeds vs gears vs rpm then checked against:
http://woodsware.aciwebs.com/gears/
Called up the entry that is loaded in there for the Ace and changed rear sprocket to 34 and stock tyre size to 80/90/18 which gives roughly the circumference of my wheel. Very, very exact results.


Not sure what exactly fixed it, could have been any of this, I didn't test as I went along.

If any one else runs a tacho like this the key settings that work for me are "1890" mm circumference, "5P" number of magnets, "Lo" rpm pickup and "1" which means one four stroke cylinder firing every 360 degrees.

 

[2b]

Skyteam China sourced this for me and shipped it to me today. Can't wait.

 

[orrible-64]

Cool, we had to paint silver oo one black


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