'71 CL350 - First Bike, First Cafe

[AlphaDogChoppers]

but what about my idle screw? i think its high but ive tried everything to get it to go lower, all i can think now is to get a bigger screw?

I would double check how you have the throttle plate on the throttle rod. Wrong side or upside down, maybe? It most definitely should fit without a different idle screw, so something ain't right.

I urge you caution with regard to removing throttle plate screws. When installed new, they are "staked" on the back side where they protrude slightly past the throttle rod. This prevents them from coming loose and getting sucked into the engine. Removing them can damage the threads in the throttle rod itself. In re-installing them, be sure to use some red Loctite, AND stake the end with a small, sharp chisel. If at all possible, try to replace them with new, brass screws. Use common sense, of course. When staking the screws, don't bend the rod. Back it up with a rod clamped in a vice as an anvil so that no force is exerted on the rod.

 

[cyclhed]

I would double check how you have the throttle plate on the throttle rod. Wrong side or upside down, maybe? It most definitely should fit without a different idle screw, so something ain't right.

x2

 

[Mowillie]

I agree with Alpha on the engine. I have a CB200 with 4600 miles. It sat for over 17 years. Clean as whistle. runs like a top now. All I did was clean the carbs, fresh gas, and new plugs. I also sold a CB350 recently.....had 42,000 miles, ran great. I would not crack that case unless the engine was stuck.

 

[cyclhed]

This is not really a case that can be decided by a poll; each case should be evaluated individually. It depends on how the bike was stored and whether it had water get in. If it was laid up properly then yes it could most likely be made to run without a tear down. The problem is that if the piston rings are rusted you could do more damage running it before you clean it.

 

[session101]

currently working on the 2nd carb, but the vaccum for the secondary's is stuck so i popped it in the freezer for the best of luck

just wanted to update those that want some bronze bushings, I emailed Bob about this and here's his reply

Hi Steven,

Thank you for your inquiry. In the past, we had distributed the CB350 bronze swingarm bushings thru another member on the list...unfortunately, due to the rather high up-front cost of having the minimum quantity made by the manufacturer, we decided to wait until demand made it feasible to once again order the qty. minimum 25 sets (note: 4 bushings make up one set for the CB/CL 350 models). With cash flow being very tight in this economy and needing to make a fair size investment to get these made up again, the other member is not in a position to continue with distribution. I plan on getting these back available sometime in the future when demand should make it worthwhile to make the investment. Thank you for your understanding.

Best regards,

Bob Franzke

CBX Performance

so what other options do i have to get new ones?

 

[session101]

muhahha look what i found

http://www.scribd.com/doc/15050635/Honda-CB-CL-SL350-Carb-Data-and-General-Info

why isn't this in my manual??!?

 

[rabbit_CL350K4]

I gotta agree with Alpha.... Im 19 years old and i bought my second bike last year. its a 1972 Honda CL350K4. It was running like shit, and i was minutes from dropping it off at a local shop for a rebuild. lucky for my i found a guy in Detroit (St. Claire) and he advised me against a total rebuild. he told me to take the plugs out and carbs off. then poor some seafoam in the motor and let it lube the cylinder walls. then do a compression test. i got 150psi on my left cylinder which had been backfiring like a mothaf#$%^! and 140psi on the right. turns out my carbs were just clogged and not letting enough fuel through because the gas tank had rusted up from sitting so long. I ended up ripping apart the carbs and cleaning the tank with a product called Metal Rescue..... This stuff is god like..... check it out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hb7jyf7A4WE this stuff is legit. but expensive.... anyway my brother has a bore snake camera and we put it in the spark plug hole to inpect the cylinders. they were rusty, but if it works it works.

 

[session101]

well right now after the carbs im gonna go work on the wheels and get those seperated to that i can stick that with the frame and others to powdercoat, then im gonna start on re-assembly and wiring, i think my engine might be last my question is...

how long is the motor gonna last if i just leave it the way that it is and stick some nice AMSOIL in it? is my motor gonna fail after a day at the track? so that's why im questioning the rebuild?

oh also is there something i can throw in the oil pan with the motor all in tact after i get it running to dissolve or get rid of the sludge?

 

[rabbit_CL350K4]

do yourself a favor and buy a bottle of seafoam and pure a bit into the spark plug holes. just a bit. and let it sit. then put two bits of paper towel over the holes (NO SPARK PLUGS! you DON'T want to compress it) and kick the motor gently for a bit. then fast to clear it out. this will cleanup the carbon buildup and junk. now do and oil change with the cheapest oil you can buy. ride her around for 100 miles and then put in some quality oil. Now im a HUGE fan of amsoil and put it in everything. however this bike wasn't made to be ran with synthetic oil, just something to think about. i would use good old standard.

Oh, here are some pics of my bike, thought id share! Enjoy!

 

[rabbit_CL350K4]

LEDs & SS Bolts 8)

 

[session101]

ok tell me where you picked those up.. bother the led's and the SS bolts, i just spent 5 mins getting 1 bolt off the alternator cover.. the bolt was stripped so i had to heat it up then hammer in a phillip bit to get it out, its a bit nippy outside so i brought my gauges in to work on, i plan to do the LED's and put some nice white gauges, but i also need to probally paint the needle red

 

[AlphaDogChoppers]

Only 5 minutes getting it out? Shit, that wasn't bad at all! I have had times when I spent several hours getting one fastener out.

 

[jakeZ70]

Maybe you're using one of these. Maybe not. For "big fixes" I bring my bike to a local guy who works on vintage stuff. I asked him how he removes case cover screws. He said impact driver. I automatically thought pneumatic tools and expensive. Nope. 20 bucks. You'll remove all of your case cover screws in less than five minutes. It has attachments for other types of fasteners as well. This thing is amazing. A whack or to with a rubber mallet or hammer and they're loose. How I never heard of it, I'll never know. Been tinkering on engines all of my life.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P

You can find kits of SS bolts on ebay pre-packaged for specific bikes, but if you have a Fastenal close by, go there (http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex). They have discounts for students as well. I picked up a bag of 50 for case covers for 11 bucks.

I apologize if I hijacked your post.

 

[Swapmeet Louie]

Even I'll say Alpha is Correct on his advise on this one... That motor was barely broke in before it was parked. And if you need a manual to rebuild carbs (any carb!) , Your experience levels are currently a little low to tackle a rebuild problem free. 350 Motors are a dime a dozen. Pick up a fucked one to learn on.

 

[AlphaDogChoppers]

Hey, Louie.
Good to "E" ya.

Did it make you throw up in your mouth a little to agree with me? <G>

 

[rabbit_CL350K4]

X1,000,000,000 on the impact driver! ;D

I Got the SS Bolts from Ebay, $38 shipped. This is the exact on i ordered, all bolts are labeled as to
where they go. so its nice.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310153603921?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

LED come in a 2 pack for $8 Shipped, shipping was like $5. Here is the link:
http://www.amazon.com/BA9S-Light-Bulb-Round-White/dp/B005WYH1RE/ref=pd_ybh_2?pf_rd_p=280800601&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_t=1501&pf_rd_i=ybh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=10GPRG6180Y9AXWB7AJR

Hope this helps!
Im also waiting on a $250 order of stuff from Dime City Cycles..... slotted brake pads, points, condenser, some seals, aluminum hand grips, all cables, bar end mirror, AND A H4 HEADLIGHT!!!! can't wait for that, will post before and after picks on that, should be sweet! ;D

 

[session101]

H4 headlight...i would advise not.... ive read that people have problems with charging system and just not a good overall experience... im going with the bi-xenon setup because it only draws a small ammount like the original setup.

thanks for the links ill put those on order, and ill just swap out all the bolt 1 at a time and hopefully not cause any leaks.

Alpha.. yeah pretty much have been becoming an expert on stripped heads... for bolts i use a file and then hammer a socket on to fit it. and as far as the screws i just heat it up then hammer a bit in to form and then still go back at it

oh anyone know where to get the proper tool to remove the large snap ring on the back wheel? i picked up one a harbor freight and its just not big enough to give me room to get it off

 

[rabbit_CL350K4]

H4 headlight...i would advise not....

Im thinking it will be fine because the H4 bulb is 35/35W just like the stock. It shouldn't draw any extra power should it?

 

[AlphaDogChoppers]

The standard H4 bulb is 55W/60W. Other, higher, wattages are available, but I don't think lower wattages are available.

 

[rabbit_CL350K4]

The standard H4 bulb is 55W/60W. Other, higher, wattages are available, but I don't think lower wattages are available.

Dime City Cycles 8) they will hook you up for just $10.95....
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-electronic-lighting-parts-35w-h4-headlight-bulb-39-4201.html