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Btw. I need some info on how to lace wheels (pattern), i will have a shop true them, but i wanna save some money and put them together myself before i go to the shop.
Rocan: Mine were also still a tight fit around the valve, as you tell. But for some reason the ends closest to the combustion chamber were cracked and pieces were missing. And i didn't wanna take the chance of getting pieces into the engine after rebuild so i made new ones.
Bobdot: It's 36 spokes front and rear, pictures would be greatly appriciated, for some reason i forgot to take close ups of wheels before i took them apart with the grinder :-[
Also, while looking for the valveguide pictures I found a picture of the old and new camchain roller, there's a little difference ;D:
thats what mine looked like too! i wouldnt have gone back to OEM... i would have either gotten the steel wheeled ones (i think ohio cafe racers sells them?) or gotten some wheels machined out of some harder material. i took the alternate route and went with a KA tensioner, although technically for a street bike the stock design is a little better (minus the rubber wheels)
bummer on the valve guides being chipped... i wonder how that happened..
i havent looked at my clymers for a while. get the REAL shop manual (i have a PDF version) and i never needed it.
Alrighty, here's what I got on my XS650 wheels (36 spoke):
I made a little diagram to wrap my head around the lacing pattern:
pretty much (as I see it) pick a hole on the hub, draw an imaginary centerline up to the rim to intersect a nipple hole and then count 4 holes clockwise down the rim. Half the spokes (in this case those laced on the outside of the hub flange) will follow this pattern every other hole on the hub. Same thing goes in the reverse direction for the rest of the spokes being laced from the inside of the hub flange. Is that a confusing enough explanation? Feel free to disregard anything that I've said above... I realized as I was typing I was explaining it more for my own sake ;D
Rocan: I will go for a KA on my next projector or machine some whells in hard plastic/rubber, this OEM I got almost for free, again to keep costs low. I also wonder how the valveguides chipped, thinking the engine maybe been running to hot.
Bobdot: That's exactly what i was looking for, perfect. Thank you very much for that!
All the primed parts are now paintet black and drying. Will post pictures soon.
Also I've bought another frame with all legal papirs, instead of repairing the old one. Frame, swingarm, shocks and centerstand for 85$ (Where I live that's a good price)
Next on my todo list is:
Order spokes and finish whells.
Finish my seat and tank.
Finish and paint new frame.
Making of rear set.
Start assembly.
Not the biggest progress, but got these in the mail today, new rubber sealed bearings for front and rear wheel, and now only need the spokes to finish my wheels:
Also i'm waiting for the weather to clear up, so i can pick up my new frame. Can't go anywhere by car due to snow and ice :-\
Did you paint or powder the rims? if paint what did you use? I worry about getting the tires onto painted rims without chipping them all to hell and back.
The rims are just spraypaintet. 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of black. I had the exact same worries about the paint chipping when fitting tires, but i seems to hold reasonable good. I've hit some parts with a rubber hammer really hard a few times and the paint didn't chip. I thinks if you use a lot of lubricant when fitting they tires it will be alright.
Man this build is almost making me want to take mine all apart and do it all over again (wife would kill me lol). Real nice work! Can't wait to see this come together. I'm real interested in how the rear seat is going to come out. It all looks great, man! Congrats on the lil one, as well! I have a three month old and I just sit him in my lap and scroll through pics and videos of this stuff. START 'EM YOUNG!!
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