79 GL1000 "Freedom" (since I was discharged from USN in '79)
- Thread starter pidjones
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pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
Tried to fit up the Honda mufflers, and the SS headers extend ~1-2" too far back. Found a stock set and they are on the way. Meanwhile, I pulled the cover off the seat. Ordered a new one that came in today so I put it on this afternoon. Pretty pleased with how it came out.
cbrianroll
Coast to Coast
Looking good!
pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
Swaped shocks because the '79 shocks felt like riding a pogo stick. Changed the mount rubbers in the replacement shocks and mounted a handlebar that I picked up at the Barber swap meet. These shocks are dirty with rusty springs, but seem to be much firmer so I'll take the time to clean them. Handlebars have ~4" rise instead of the 9" of the others. I like them. Just need to loop the clutch cable a bit in the shelter/air cleaner area. Took her for about 25 miles and she feels pretty good although very light after the weekend two-up on the GL1800 pulling a trailer. Rode her in to the Time Warp Tea Room (Knoxville's Tuesday evening gathering place for 2-wheel addicted) this evening. Still need a bit better tune and the clutch adjusted. Clutch doesn't engage until lever is almost all the way out, then it seems to grab instead of slip. Rear brake getting better and better, and the fronts are so good that I have to use them two-finger.
pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
Been wanting to try an experiment of using Ford TFI modules triggered by the points to handle the coil current and dwell. So, today I finished up the wiring (well, I need to make it neater). Preliminary testing was good as it fired right up when I switched from normal ignition to the TFIs. But, then I ran out of gas so further work will continue when I get a petcock kit to repair a weepy petcock.
Anyway, it all connects via the six-prong plug on the front of the wiring interface. Just unplug the connector, plug the male from the TFIs into the box and the female into the cable that goes to the coils. Then unplug the condensers from the double connector near them. That's it! if a module should crap out all I'll have to do is swap back (takes less than a minute). I've read about the modules being used on drag cars. The main thing to worry about is cooling, and feel that the 1/2" aluminum blocks that sandwich the aluminum shower door rail with Arctic Cool heat transfer paste should carry away heat pretty well. Still I plan to scan them with an IR thermometer as soon as I can stress them. I see that I also need to re-route some of the cables going into the front of the interface. More PO fun!
The new white plugs go to the TFIs (yellow wire to the 1&2 Right coil, Blue to 3 & 4 Left coil). Red wires power the units from the old coil power feed that still jumpers to the coils and black leads to ground. Ballast resistor is jumpered in the plug as the TFI limits coil current to safe levels.
Anyway, it all connects via the six-prong plug on the front of the wiring interface. Just unplug the connector, plug the male from the TFIs into the box and the female into the cable that goes to the coils. Then unplug the condensers from the double connector near them. That's it! if a module should crap out all I'll have to do is swap back (takes less than a minute). I've read about the modules being used on drag cars. The main thing to worry about is cooling, and feel that the 1/2" aluminum blocks that sandwich the aluminum shower door rail with Arctic Cool heat transfer paste should carry away heat pretty well. Still I plan to scan them with an IR thermometer as soon as I can stress them. I see that I also need to re-route some of the cables going into the front of the interface. More PO fun!
The new white plugs go to the TFIs (yellow wire to the 1&2 Right coil, Blue to 3 & 4 Left coil). Red wires power the units from the old coil power feed that still jumpers to the coils and black leads to ground. Ballast resistor is jumpered in the plug as the TFI limits coil current to safe levels.
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pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
Brought her out a couple weeks ago from winter's slumber. Reset timing again but it was spot on. Adjusted one of the pilot screws out a full turn because the plug was white. Ran until hot, rode about 45 miles and after it was cold pulled plugs again. This time that plug was darker than the others, so I closed the pilot 1/2 turn. Checked compression (cold) all in the 160's. Today filled it to the rim with good gas while on the side stand. Took a good ride and stopped at a station to fill again (once again on the side stand). Only took 2.239 gallons (US) for 116.4 miles! I think the trip meter is pretty accurate, and I was careful to fill it to the same place in the filler neck both times. GoldWings do NOT get 50 MPG! It seemed a bit lean, but not that bad! Plugs will come out again tomorrow.
pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
I pulled the plugs and a photo is attached of them. Actually not all that bad except #3 is now much whiter than the others. The tip also seems to be a little melted. Also, I counted the turns out on all pilot screws - they were all at 2. I reset them all to 2.5 except # 3 I set to 3. I'll see how this does the next chance I get to take a good ride.
The photos are arranged:
2 1
4 3
Like you would look down on them from the seat.
The photos are arranged:
2 1
4 3
Like you would look down on them from the seat.
pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
Wife and I took a couple days to take in part of the Blue Ridge Parkway for our 39th on our 1800. The '06 was great in the cool morning run to the park (GSMNP) and for up on the parkway with highs in the low 70s (F), but a naked bike will be much better with temps in the 80s (although humidity is very low - not common for our rain forests). Today there is a ride to confirm the route for our club's 2020 Challenge (that they have postponed to October). I'll ride the '79 (with the TFIs) today. This bike has been getting over 40 mpg (US) and I'm hoping it isn't too lean. Worst seen has been ~43 mpg. My '75 motor in '78 frame gets ~35 mpg. Back when I had the '77, it got regular 38 mpg. Not complaining about good mileage, just don't want to hurt it.
I have swapped the iridium plugs out for standards, and it really seems to like them better.
I have swapped the iridium plugs out for standards, and it really seems to like them better.
pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
Avoided catastrophe today!
Testing and trying different things on the '79. Also took the rescue '78 for a run and it is running great, now! Finally, after swapping the coils on the '79 with no improvement at all, I took the TFIs out of the system (really easy - unplug two connectors, plug the coils back in where they were, and plug the condensers back in. Well, that did it! I think maybe the cheap Chinese TFIs are failing already. Also, they seem just too sensitive to any points bounce. If I ever try these again, I'll probably keep the condensers in and add a pull-up resistor. For now, it did a 45 mile loop without a hiccup.
While about three miles down the road, I reached down just to touch the left side cover to make sure it was secure - a habit I'm getting into. To my horror, I felt the badge flapping loose! Pulled over quickly and discovered it was only attached by one pin and a little glue on that pin keeping it from pulling out. Pulled it off the rest of the way and secured it in the glove box. I'll mount it with VHB tape later this week.
Testing and trying different things on the '79. Also took the rescue '78 for a run and it is running great, now! Finally, after swapping the coils on the '79 with no improvement at all, I took the TFIs out of the system (really easy - unplug two connectors, plug the coils back in where they were, and plug the condensers back in. Well, that did it! I think maybe the cheap Chinese TFIs are failing already. Also, they seem just too sensitive to any points bounce. If I ever try these again, I'll probably keep the condensers in and add a pull-up resistor. For now, it did a 45 mile loop without a hiccup.
While about three miles down the road, I reached down just to touch the left side cover to make sure it was secure - a habit I'm getting into. To my horror, I felt the badge flapping loose! Pulled over quickly and discovered it was only attached by one pin and a little glue on that pin keeping it from pulling out. Pulled it off the rest of the way and secured it in the glove box. I'll mount it with VHB tape later this week.
