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The school year is coming to a close, which also means that this will be headed back to my home shop soon. A few of my students helped wrap a few things up, and they seemed to really dig working on it. (One of them rides a grom in to class almost every day, so he's already ahead of the game in my book lol)
We managed to accomplish fabricating/ installing the steering stop, rear fender mounts, kickstand, cutting and smoothing the axle plates and making the rear brake stay. We also designed and cut mockup motor mounts, chain tensioner, case saver/ chain guard and an aluminum fork brace, which will be cut on the waterjet tomorrow after work. I told them that I hope to ride it in for the first day of school this fall.
Dad and I met after work the other day to cut a bunch of the final pieces for the bike on the waterjet. Motor mounts, case saver/ chain guard, fork brace, chain tensioner, license plate holder and a fork brace.
All of the parts need some sort of machining to finish, but I'm sure glad to have access to this equipment. I'm handy enough with a bandsaw, drill press and a file when I need to be, but I'm happy I didn't have to with all of these parts lol.
A little trick I use with this type of parts out of aluminum is using a router table to finish it off. It adds alot of depth and a nice finish to an otherwise flat and simple piece. In this case, I'm just using a 1/8" radius quarter round bit. Most quality bits will hold up well enough on aluminum, though the shaving tend to really attract to clothing (and beards)
Man this thing is looking rad. I also used that router technique for some rearsets i made recently! A machinst buddy showed me that technique and his tip to get a real smooth chatter free finish is to do the finish pass at like .005"- .010" depth of cut and climb cut, with a smear of cutting wax the tool finish is excellent.
Man this thing is looking rad. I also used that router technique for some rearsets i made recently! A machinst buddy showed me that technique and his tip to get a real smooth chatter free finish is to do the finish pass at like .005"- .010" depth of cut and climb cut, with a smear of cutting wax the tool finish is excellent.
Fantastic advice. Did this on the motor mount plates and the finish was much nicer. (The lighting in the closeup of the outside cut look worse than it is. )I struggled to get a finish like this with quarter round end mills on a cnc machine when I was doing tool and die work. I was hesitant to climb with it, but after roughing most of it off conventionally, it wasn't a big deal. All of the bare aluminum (less the tank and fender) will eventually get anodized, either silver or clear, haven't decided which yet.
Tanks fellas. Yesterday I got the chain tensioner mounted as well as tank mounts. I'm a handful of little things to do before I blow this thing apart to finish weld a few things that I can't get to with it assembled. Then I'll assemble it with the fresh motor, get it running and riding to make sure nothing major needs modded or welded before blowing it apart one last time for powder coat and paint.
Oh man that's still awesome of you to think its worthy. I may run up there this year just to check things out! Id not have been finished in time for this years anyways, unless they'd accept an un finished, non running roller lol
Thanks John! We will have to get a DTT bobber ride together sometime soon. I know you, @irk miller and @Kanticoy will all have them, and hopefully before long @Deviant1 will have a stupid tw200 hardtail as well lol
I decided that this thing may be cooler with a sidecar, specifically a leaner. I was doing a bunch of reading, and was going to modify my velorex 562 to be a leaner against my r90/6, but I decided to go with this instead.
Part of what I wanted to do was be able remove the leaner sub frame quickly and easily and have it look as though there was never one on the bike. This is what I came up with. I added a simple cross member under the front of the motor with two bungs threaded for half inch fine thread bolts. I also drilled the existing cross member for the same bungs.
From there I stated making the leaner subframe.
With 4 bolts, you'll be able to pull this thing off and I doubt anyone will be any the wiser that it was there.
The connections/pivots will be 3/4" chromoly heim joints.
Not sure that I'll go with this, but it was worth a mockup. I actually started this frame years ago to be a single wheel trailer for behind a dr650. Sold the dr650 and here we are. This hacks job will be to cart my 3.5 year old son around on back roads and go for the occasional "beverage fridge restocking run", so it's not a real serious, big miles project, just a fun addition.
Well... to say the least, I'm shocked! Honestly didn't see this coming but I'm lovin' it. It's a great idea and I'm very impressed. This is going to, in my opinion, really fit the bill for you; cruise on the Bobberer, with or without Lenny. Covers the need for the occasional blast on the bobber as well as the occasional cruise with your boy as well as the quickie grocery run. Very sweet and my hat's off to ya!
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