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I thought I'd start a new tread about common problems and suggestions how to fix them.
So here goes the first one! Yesterday my engine stalled twice - first time when it was just idling in neutral gear and then when I was doing like 50kph uphill in second or third gear. Didn't want to start again and started when I removed the spark plug cap and put it on again. I have checked the spark plug and it is quite black, looks like there is some oil, but not really sure how to interpret this.
Do you guys think it's a faulty spark plug or could it be the carburetor jets? Or something else?
Picture of the spark plug attached (sorry about the quality, my phone didn't want to focus).
Try reading this on plugs - one of the best articles I've found but a bit out of date in some respects, although this makes it ACE perfect!
http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html
Plugs are complicated thing to read and apart from a basic guide there is no point without a torch and a magnifying glass - but to be honest with the carb/jet combos we all have no one is going to be a mile out - if your bike is not running right there is a fault that needs fixing not a spec that needs changing.....
Best advice I ever got was ' what was the last thing you touched/mended/adjusted - that's where the fault is!'
99% true in my experience......
Can't remember if it says it in the article but to get a reading on a plug you need to thrash the bike in say fourth, whip the clutch in, throttle off and kill the engine all at once then look at it.
Sometimes with a handlebar mounted choke lever the cable sticks, or the adjustment is incorrect, and the choke doesn't shut off completely.
The second change I made to my bike was to remove the handlebar lever and cable, and reach under the tank to use the choke.
Simple and uncomplicated. When the motor was run-in I removed the butterfly from the carby.
I wouldn't worry about plug reading on anything but a sustained full throttle high rpm run and like Dave M said, hit that kill switch. Any idling, part throttle, hill climbing etc is going to render plug reading useless.
I note on the build spreadsheet, you mention ooracing jets but standard exhaust? If this is the case, the engine may currently be over-carbed. Junk that strangulator, and see if that sorts it out.
Thanks for you help guys, I will try to de-cat the exhaust first and maybe ditch the the handlebar lever and cable and hopefully that will sort the problem out ;-)
Hi Thomas, just read your reply to Has's suggestion about the side stand switch. It is best to disconnect it to eliminate it, follow the wires from the the switch to under the left panel. As if it is the switch then you will be looking in the wrong place for a long time. Tad.
Hey guys,
Sorry to bring up an old thread.
I know that this topic has been talked about.. But I haven't found the answer yet, redirect me if it's here.
I have a stock ace 125 with the EGR still intact. My question is.. Is the little white thing attached to it supposed to be puffing air or exhaust?? Into my left leg? I'm just not sure if it was supposed to be attached to anything else.
Oh and if I bought a blanking kit and remove it will I need to re-jet or tune at all or will my bike run fine without any other adjustments.
no rejetting needed. this part does not improve the way bike runs at all. it should allow air to enter into exhaust while bike is drawing air fuel mix into motor therefore making exhaust gases "leaner" on hydrocarbon content by dilution. it does not let exhaust gas to escape from white bit and the nozzle thingy is a air intake . it is not a true erg system as that stands for exhaust gas recirculation . all that happens is the little black hose gets vacuum from intake,turns on air tap to exhaust which draws in air from nozzle into the exhaust pipe through thicker black pipe into the exhaust port via steel pipe with flange on motor side. this air also triggers hydrocarbons in exhaust to have more free oxygen so they go through a secondary burn in the exhaust header. these gasses then pass through a catalytic element(platinum corrugation after header ) and further reduce hydrocarbon content. platinum causes a reaction with gas and glows red hot without flame .this is all nice and would seem a good thing except that this restriction causes a loss of almost half of the engines usable power.
no rejetting needed. this part does not improve the way bike runs at all. it should allow air to enter into exhaust while bike is drawing air fuel mix into motor therefore making exhaust gases "leaner" on hydrocarbon content by dilution. it does not let exhaust gas to escape from white bit and the nozzle thingy is a air intake . it is not a true erg system as that stands for exhaust gas recirculation . all that happens is the little black hose gets vacuum from intake,turns on air tap to exhaust which draws in air from nozzle into the exhaust pipe through thicker black pipe into the exhaust port via steel pipe with flange on motor side. this air also triggers hydrocarbons in exhaust to have more free oxygen so they go through a secondary burn in the exhaust header. these gasses then pass through a catalytic element(platinum corrugation after header ) and further reduce hydrocarbon content. platinum causes a reaction with gas and glows red hot without flame .this is all nice and would seem a good thing except that this restriction causes a loss of almost half of the engines usable power.
Hmmm... Well there must be something wrong with mine because it is blowing air (a lot) out of the white nozzle with acceleration. Enough to feel it on my leg whilst riding! Any ideas why this would be happening?
I'll try post a vid of it blowing a tissue or something to show you the strength of air.
Will I require rejetting if a get the straight through header from ooracing?
sorry for the silly questions, first bike everything is still very new to me.
cheers
if it blows not sucks it means that the exhaust is so restrictive that the valve is an easier escape rout for exhaust than the pipe and back pressure is coming out the nozzle... when you order oo's pipe , order jets to suit .you will find a large increase in power ,better idle and easier cold start. not only is the catalytic converter restrictive but the bends in the original pipe are double walled causing inner pipe to crush and cause more restriction too. so change jets , replace pipe and undo bolts holding little steel right angled pipe and put a plate under(behind) flange to block the egr if you don't want to take it off all together.
this will increase your power nicely. put on a new muffler from ebay or oo. and enjoy a good more powerful bike...next step after that is do the barrel , piston ,head from oo(150cc) change front cog to 16 tooth and look out , you have a great bike.
Front disc is warped. Has been from new but with new FA165HH pads I am noticing it more.
Went in to shop to get a new one under warranty. The new one was worse! So I stuck with the original. There was another Ace in for service and it had a slight warp too. They are NZ$40 retail, think that may say something about the quality.
With normal use it is unnoticebale but braking lightly and just coming up to a gentle stop I feel it pulse.
Anyone know what other manufacturer may have a disc that will fit?
metal gear in australia do after market discs, maybe if we sent them a stock disc to measure up they might be able to do one for the ace that would be better quality.
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thanks for the response.
