air box to cone filter

[Felfriast]

I've got some plans of changing the air box filter on my Honda 600 Shadow to a cone filter. After reading around a bit online I've realized that I'll probably have to rejet the engine for it to work properly.

My question is, and this might be a really stupid one:

Instead of rejetting, wouldn't it be easier to just "choke" the cone filter to match the original flow from the air box? Rejetting seems difficult, couldn't for example putting a piece of plastic with some holes in it that lets through the same airflow as the original filter solve the problem?

 

[VonYinzer]

Do you have the ability to properly map air fule mixture througout the rev range, allowing yourself to design an intake system like you've described which will let the engine and carburetor function properly?

Just rejet it. If rejetting is too difficult, you shouldn't be modifying ANYTHING on the bike yourself. Dont mean to sound harsh but...

 

[nrcb125]

You really shouldn't be putting pod filters on a CV carb either...

VonYinzer is definitely correct. It would be near impossible to get right without a proper test setup.

 

[miikeflynn]

Both your idea and rejetting are going to require some work and some trial and error. Only difference is rejetting is going to increase performance. I would rather there be a positive outcome from my labors.

 

[sprocket2cog]

if your bike isnt your main transport then why not get a workshop manual for the bike and dive into the carbs, if it dosnt work first time try again, just go slow and be paitent so you dont loose or break anything. rejetting is fairly easy on paper, just open the float bowls and unscrew some brass jets and put new ones in, but in practice there is 100 small things to get in the way, from a misaligned float to a blocked jet from gunk in the carbs, so as well as rejetting you will need to clean them inside and out so dirt dosnt get in.
theres two types of bike owners , those that get others to fix it or those that see the ike as a project to be played with, as half the fun is in the fixing and tinkering around to see what works, and we live in an age of information so you can find out things easier now then any time before.
just ask questions and seek answers, and listen to people, they know heaps and most will gladly help anyone whos decides to follow the path of bike wrench.

besides putting plastic over them to make them the same air flow as a stock box wont give you any performance boost, the only real reason to put pods on in the first place, and with a rejet and pods and a open exhaust you can get a noticable performance boost.

 

[Islandstar]

With absolutely no mechanical experience I did a pod mod on my v star. It's not difficult but a ton of little things can go wrong, but usually little things. Part of the fun of owning my bike is working on the bike. I'm sure someone here can tell u right jet size and adjustment for your particular bike. To put pods on and then cover them just seems a bit counter intuitive.

 

[Felfriast]

Haha Ok, thanks for the input guys. I was hoping I had come up with a quick-fix, but I'll take your advice and dive into rejetting it. Maybe wait until the season is over so I'll have a couple of months of trial and error.

 

[killian101]

if you have the manual, I found this for reference: http://www.eurekaboy.com/shadow/rejet.htm

 

[mydlyfkryzis]

Changing jets is easy. Selecting the right ones is the trick.

The CV carbs also have air jets. If these aren't modified, you end up with a carb that may be right high throttle and low throttle, but too rich mid range. Or right mid range and off the high and low.

You are also assuming the filter is less restrictive. Many of those pod type cone filters have less surface area than the stock filter and are more restrictive.

It is not a cut and dry process rejetting properly.

 

[Felfriast]

if you have the manual, I found this for reference: http://www.eurekaboy.com/shadow/rejet.htm

Thanks man! I'll save that link for when I get the time/courage to rejet.

 

[Felfriast]

Changing jets is easy. Selecting the right ones is the trick.

The CV carbs also have air jets. If these aren't modified, you end up with a carb that may be right high throttle and low throttle, but too rich mid range. Or right mid range and off the high and low.

You are also assuming the filter is less restrictive. Many of those pod type cone filters have less surface area than the stock filter and are more restrictive.

It is not a cut and dry process rejetting properly.

Yeah, I'm starting to get that now.

I thought all box filters created a sort of vacuum and cone filters gave a higher flow. But that's not the case then. Thanks for enlightening me.

 

[boingk]

Hi mate for a reasonable exhaust like a 4-1 or higher flow 2-1 system plus podfilters I'd recommend jetting around 15% or so over standard to start with. So a #100 main jet becomes a #115, etc. That'll give out a decent place t start and get the bike running, anyway. I would also recommend raising the needles one or two to keep your bottomend response, as well as resetting the airscrews and idle.

Its not a huge project but definitely needs some forethought and trial and error.

Cheers - boingk

 

[Scruffy]

VLX600? Fun little bike, but needs a smaller rear sprocket (drop 3 teeth).

Leave the airbox intact, the carbs on "hidden induction" metrics are a nightmare. Try modding an 800 Intruder sometime, it will teach you all kinds of new "sailor speak", and since the Intruder is a knock-off of first generation Shadows...

 

[Felfriast]

VLX600? Fun little bike, but needs a smaller rear sprocket (drop 3 teeth).

Leave the airbox intact, the carbs on "hidden induction" metrics are a nightmare. Try modding an 800 Intruder sometime, it will teach you all kinds of new "sailor speak", and since the Intruder is a knock-off of first generation Shadows...

Thanks for the advice. I'll probably leave the airbox. Seems like everyone thinks it's a bad idea to remove it.

 

[Felfriast]

Hi mate for a reasonable exhaust like a 4-1 or higher flow 2-1 system plus podfilters I'd recommend jetting around 15% or so over standard to start with. So a #100 main jet becomes a #115, etc. That'll give out a decent place t start and get the bike running, anyway. I would also recommend raising the needles one or two to keep your bottomend response, as well as resetting the airscrews and idle.

Its not a huge project but definitely needs some forethought and trial and error.

Cheers - boingk

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind if/when I decide to rejet it. Everyone seems to think it's a bad idea though, so I might skip that for now.